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A few seasons ago, it would have been hard to imagine how Marc Jacobs’ fashion week after party, then filled with A-list celebrities and top tastemakers, could have been more exclusive. And yet this season it was. The only people allowed past the door at the Standard’s 18th Floor Monday night were employees of the house.

Upstairs in the spacious and decadent club, the mood was ebullient. Seamstresses nibbled on burgers and sat by the fire. Members of the design team blew off steam and boogied by the piano. And nearly everyone in attendance had a martini in their hand.

This story first appeared in the February 17, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Jacobs, however, had more work ahead (today’s Marc by Marc Jacobs show and Louis Vuitton in Paris) and so he retired to a lower booth with boyfriend Lorenzo Martone and a few close friends. “I’m very excited and tired at the same time, so I have a weird energy,” Jacobs said, before discussing the origin of his well-received collection. “Everyone I work with, we all kind of agreed we wanted to do something gentle, something fun, something filled with memory and unapologetic about not being modern or of the moment. There was a real unanimous feeling of comfort and something subtle and substantial. When I sit with my design team, the first thing that goes through our head is, ‘What didn’t we do last time?’ We’re all very sensitive to what we would love to see and what we feel we’ve seen too much of.”

Several within the fashion industry would agree that one thing they’ve seen too much of is celebrities at the shows, a phenomenon Jacobs has eliminated from his presentations — for now. “That came about in the beginning of the whole economic crisis where we had to scale down,” he said. “People appreciate it’s a job, what we’re doing is work and we’re showing to our buyers the press and stuff like that. We can’t afford to do a huge spectacle, and it seems wrong at the moment.”

So instead, it was a quiet show and an intimate after party for his team. And then on to the next collection, whether he has the energy for it or not. “I slept three hours last night. I mean, I fell asleep with my nicotine patch on, so I had horrible nightmares,” he said. “I haven’t slept very much, but none of us have. But it’s not as bad as it used to be. We’re much more organized.”

<p>Marc Jacobs</p>

Photo By: Steve Eichner

<p>Andre Balazs</p>

Photo By: Steve Eichner

<p>Angela Lindvall</p>

Photo By: Steve Eichner

<p>Justin Theroux</p>

Photo By: Steve Eichner

<p>Lili Xian, Sophia Wong, Shirley Ruan and Mindy Lee.</p>

Photo By: Steve Eichner

<p>Rodger Berman and Rachel Zoe</p>

Photo By: Steve Eichner

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