What rouses the trendsetters? From picturesque bridges and atmospheric eateries to quirky specialist shops off the beaten path, here are some of the fashion crowd’s favorite Paris inspirations. — Katya Foreman, Emilie Marsh and Natasha Montrose
This story first appeared in the July 27, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Helen Kennedy Lambert, Chief Executive of Buying Office Lambert & Associates, Paris
Off the beaten path: “Jardin de Bagatelle, on the edge of the city, is a wonderful, luxuriant garden with waterfalls, ponds and a very famous rose garden (Parc de Bagatelle, Route du Point du Jour, 75016; Tel.: +33-1-41-71-75-60); Le Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, for a moment suspended in time, has a collection of beautiful paintings and trophies in the heart of Le Marais (62 Rue des Archives, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-53-01-92-40). You cannot imagine you’re still in Paris.”
Shops: “L’Eclaireur, a fascinating store hidden behind a huge door. It offers a unique selection of underground and edgy designers; Dary’s, unique vintage jewelry for reminiscent surprises and the excitement of never knowing what you are going to find (362 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-60-95-23); Galerie Hervé Van der Straeten, inspirational gallery of sculptural jewelry and strong home design (11 Rue Ferdinand Duval, 75004; Tel.: +33-1-42-78-99-99); Paris’ flea markets (140 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint Ouen, Tel.: +33-1-40-12-32-58), the pleasure of not looking for anything in particular but always finding something unexpected.
LouLou de la Falaise
Site: “I’m most inspired, especially at this time of year, by being on a bridge in Paris, at 8 in the evening, sometime between the day and the night. I do like the feeling of being over water, being above the Seine.”
Andrew Keith, President of Joyce, Hong Kong
Shops: “Palais Royal, especially Didier Ludot (24 Galerie Montpensier, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-96-06-56), a treasure trove of vintage couture, and Stéphane Chapelle (29 Rue Richelieu, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-60-65-66). He is a genius, the best flowers in Paris. Around Rue Saint-Honoré, Maison Francis Kurkdjian (9 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-77-40-33) is a gem. I love this shop: the scented bubbles. I always stock up on the scented clothes wash, and Astier de Villatte (173 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001; Tel.: +331-42-60-74-13).”
Where to find me: “On the Rive Gauche, my favorite place to spend a morning, Assouline (35 Rue Bonaparte, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-43-29-23-20), Deyrolle (46 Rue du Bac, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-42-22-30-07), Moissonnier (52 Rue de l’Université, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-42-61-84-88), Cire Trudon (78 Rue de Seine, 75006;Tel.: +33-1-43-26-46-50), Frédéric Malle (37 Rue de Grenelle, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-42-22-76-40) the Balenciaga men’s wear store (5 Rue de Varenne, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-42-22-00-56), followed by a picnic lunch on the grass at Les Invalides with a fresh baguette and cheese from Barthélémy cheese shop (51 Rue de Grenelle, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-42-22-82-24).”
Culture: “Le Musée du quai Branly (37 quai Branly, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-56-61-70-00), with its tribal and ethnic treasures, is always so inspiring. I love the wilderness of the gardens and the restaurant, which has fantastic views of the Eiffel Tower. Musée Albert Kahn (10-14, Rue du Port, 92100 Boulogne; Tel.: +33-1-1-55-19-28-20) — his vision to capture all the peoples of the world during the early days of color photography has resulted in an amazing collection of images.”
Eating out: “Food is always a highlight of my Paris visits: Chocolates at Patrick Roger (108 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-43-29-38-42), pad thai at Thiou (49 Quai d’Orsay, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-40-62-96-50), lunch at the Rose Bakery (30 Rue D ebelleyme, 75003, Tel.: +33-1-49-96-54-01), too many macaroons at Ladurée (21 Rue Bonaparte, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-44-07-64-87), couscous at 404 (69 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-42-74-57-81), something traditional at Benoit (20 Rue Saint Martin, 75004; Tel.: +33-1-42-72-25-76).”
Hangouts: “Chez Didine, a bar only open in the summer in the Tuileries gardens by the ferris wheel; the Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint Germain, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-45-48-55-26); Ravi, my favorite Indian restaurant on the Rue de Verneuil (50 Rue de Verneuil, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-42-61-17-28); Hôtel Amour (8 Rue de Navarin, 75009; Tel.: +33-1-48-78-31-80); Takara, my favorite Japanese restaurant on Rue Molière (14 Rue Molière, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-96-08-38); and Chez Moune, a fun small club on Rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle (54 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle 75009; Tel.: +33-1-45-26-64-64).
Shops: “I go to Ultramod, a beautiful old haberdashery on Rue de Choiseul (3 Rue de Choiseul, 75002; Tel.: +33-1-42-96-98-30); Mokuba, a ribbon shop on Rue Montmartre (18 Rue Montmartre, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-40-13-81-41); Anoushka, for vintage clothes at 6 Avenue du Coq, 75009; Tel.: +33-1-48-74-37-00); to Azzedine Alaïa for dresses I can’t afford; and Shakespeare & Co., a book shop (37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005; Tel.: +33-1-43-25-40-93).
Inès de la Fressange, Roger Viver Brand Ambassador
Shops: “I love Jeannine Cros for bed and table linens (11 Rue Assas, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-45-48-00-67). She takes old fabrics and dyes them. She’s a genius of color. For jewelry, I love Adelline (54 Rue Jacob, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-47-03-07-18). For kids’ wear, you’ll only find places like Zef (55 Rue des Saint-Pères, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-42-22-02-93) and Soeur (88 Rue Bonaparte, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-46-34-19-33) in Paris.”
Eating out: “When I need to lose a bit of weight, I love to go to Cru because all of the food is raw there, (7 Rue Charlemagne, 75004; Tel.: +33-1-40-27-81-84).”
Hangouts: “The Cinéma du Panthéon (13 Rue Victor Cousin, 75005; Tel.: +33-1-40-46-01-21) is fabulous. It’s really homey with sofas and armchairs.”
Jean-Philippe Prugnaud, Director of Buying Office Mint Sa
Eating out: “Le Marché Mouffetard and the market at the end of Rue Daguerre (75014). Both have excellent products and a sweet country feel that allows you to pretend you are on vacation.”
Shops: “I love the north of the Marais. You can always find something unexpected.”
Recent finds: “Mavrommatis (47 Rue Censier, 75005; Tel.: +33-1-45-35-64-95) offers an incredible health and beauty selection of products based on traditional Greek recipes such as mastiha, a sap-based extract found exclusively on the Greek island of Chios as well as incredible soaps creams and toothpastes.”
Off the beaten path: “The gardens of the Albert Kahn museum in Boulogne-Billancourt, especially the blue forest and the Japanese garden particularly during the spring and fall when the maple trees turn red and yellow.”
Ed Burstell, Managing Director, Liberty
Shops: “Rue de Seine and Rue Jacob for galleries, furniture and one-off exhibitions and, of course, bars. And don’t forget Pâtisserie Gérard Mulot (76 Rue de Seine, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-43-26-85-77) for cakes, if you can get in. Also, I love the paper stores on the Rue du Pont Louis- Philippe such as Papier Plus at number 9 (75004; Tel.: +33-1-42-77-70-49).”
Where to find me: “The top floor of the Louvre, which houses the Flemish artists.”
Best finds: “A bar cart from the Twenties with wrapped green leather legs and a copper-engraved serving tray I found at the Marché Paul Bert, part of Paris Saint-Ouen Flea Market on the outskirts of the city. Also, amazing candles from a tiny florist Odorantes (9 Rue Madame, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-42-84-03-00). Light two at once and place at either end of the room — divine.”
Eating out: “L’Ami Louis (32 Rue du Vertbois, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-48-87-77-48), the best and probably the most expensive chicken you’ll ever have. Almost impossible to get a reservation.”
Gert Van De Keuken, Creative Director at Li Edelkoort
Trends: “There is definitely a return to people doing things more off the beaten track. The Pavilion Rosa Bonheur in the park Buttes Chaumont is a great place to go. It is arty and they have organic food (2 Avenue des Cascades, 75019; Tel.: +33-1-42-00-00-45). Another place I really like is the bar restaurant La Belle Hortense, where you can drink Champagne until 2 a.m. and read one of the bar’s many books (31 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-42-72-47-47). Also the Japanese restaurant Ploum (20 Rue Alibert, 75010; Tel.: +33-1-42-00-11-90).”
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Sites and shops: “I love going to Rarissime (18 Rue Saint-Roch, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-96-30-49). It’s a small antiques store in the wall of the Saint Roch church that used to be Napoleon’s hairdresser. Robespierre and all of the Revolutionaries would go there, and just for that I buy something from there now and then. I’m always looking for traces. I have a huge soft spot for the Musée Carnavalet (23 Rue de Sévigné, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-44-59-58-58) for the 18th-century period….Then Palais Royal, it’s so fashionable now, but if you walk around at night you can see spirits. The Pont Neuf bridge, with its “incredible statue of Henry IV, is one of those places where — you know what the girl does in “Titanic” — you can open your arms and go, ‘Ahhh.’”
Eating out: “It’s very eclectic. There’s Kai (18 Rue du Louvre, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-40-15-01-99) which is great for Japanese. I often eat at L’Epi d’Or (25 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-36-38-12). Christian Louboutin has his own private entrance from out back. La Régalade (49 Avenue Jean Moulin, 75014; Tel.: +33-1-45- 45-68-58) is incredible. The owner is of the idea that the new trend is generosity. It’s 30 euros (about $38 at current exchange) for three courses.”
Drinks: “The bar at the Hôtel Meurice (228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-44-58-10-10) stocks the JC/DC cocktail. With my sons, we concocted something that would attract the girls. It has Bombay Sapphire Gin and hibiscus flower — you have to surrender!”
Nelly Rodi, Founder and Creative Director of Trend Agency Nelly Rodi
Sites: “I love the Musée de la vie Romantique in the 9th district near Montmartre (16 Rue Chaptal, 75009; Tel.: +33-1-55-31-95-67) as well as the Gustave Moreau atelier (14 Rue de La Rochefoucauld, 75009; Tel.: +33-1-48-74-38-50).”
Trends: What Rodi calls “tradiscreet,” a mix of tradition and discretion. “Forget fake brands, forget volume, forget celebrities. Focus on friends, people, relationships, quality time and quality shopping. I love Kitsuné, a Franco- Japanese fashion brand founded by DJ duo Masaya and Gildas. Gildas comes from Brittany and Masaya is Japanese. Their music and their fashion are just great for the new ‘tradiscreet’ young generation (52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001; +33-1-42-60-34-28).” Rodi also recommends a number of “tradiscreet” contemporary art galleries, including Baumet Sultana (20 Rue Saint Claude, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-44-54-08-90) and Alain Gutharc (7 Rue Saint-Claude, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-47-00-32-10).
Rita Nakouzi, Director at Promostyl
Hot spots: “At the moment, the South Pigalle area is the trendy part of Paris in which to hang out. A new spot is Tokki, a small cantine — quite cool. The chef is inspired by Japanese cuisine and the notion of well being. You eat bentos and drink antioxidant teas (10 Rue de la Boule Rouge, 75009; Tel.: +33-1-45-23-18-80).”
Trends: “There’s this DIY spirit that’s been happening that’s superfun. The Sweat Shop is a new concept where you can eat great pastries and rent Singer sewing machines and the two Austrian founders, Sissi Holleis and Martena Duss, can give you some design tips (13 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010; Tel.: +33-9-52-85-47-41).”
Shops: “I’m always inspired when I go to Odorantes. I love the floral arrangements and I pick up my candles there. (9 Rue Madame, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-42-84-03-00). I really love going to Noir Kennedy to see what’s going on (12 and 22 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004; Tel.: +33-1-42-71-15-50). I always like the vintage store La Galerie Avril for Fifties to Seventies vintage designs by Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand. (13 Rue Guénégaud, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-44-07-13-14), or I like Masomenos, where a graphic designer-DJ and her producer- director boyfriend stock their shelves with cool vintage trinkets and superluxe cashmere sweaters by Pellat Finet (34 Rue Mont Thabor, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-96-61-78).”
Barbara Atkin, Vice President and Creative Director, Holt Renfrew, Canada
Shops: “Podium, a multibrand fine jewelry store with an edgy vibe (334 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-14-29-6-86-35); Gabrielle Geppert, vintage accessories, a great selection in a nice environment (31-34 Galerie de Montpensier, 75001; Tel.: +33-1- 42-61-53-52); L’Air de Rien, a boutique with home products, candles, bath and body products but displayed like a gallery, very nice atmosphere and selection (33 ter Rue des Tournelles, 75003; Tel.: +33-1-42-61-53-52); Iunx, amazing fragrance and concept, not to miss. (Hôtel Costes: 239 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001; Tel.: +33-1-42-44-50-00)
Eating out: Chez Julien, a cute French restaurant with a warm atmosphere and very good food, nice and cozy for winter with a large terrace in summer (1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004; Tel.: +33-1-42-78-31-64); La Plage, a restaurant on the banks of the river, not far from the Eiffel Tower, feels like being outside of Paris (Port de Javel Haut, 75015; Tel.: +33-1-40-59-41-00); Thoumieux refurnished French brasserie (79 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007; Tel.: +33-1-47-05-49-75), with a real Parisian feel; La Société, a classic but always nice (4 Place Saint Germain, 75006; Tel.: +33-1-53-63-60-60); Café de L’Homme (17 Place du Trocadéro, 75016;Tel.: +33-1-44 05-30-15), amazing view of Paris and the Eiffel Tower.
Drinks: “Rooftop of Hotel Raphael, hidden and romantic place with an amazing view of the city (17 Avenue Kléber, 75016; Tel.: +33-1-53-64-32-00).