The City of Light never dims. For this couture season, it offers newness on every front — from jewelry to fashion, drink, perfume and art.
JEWEL BOX: Jewelry continues to buck the overall slowdown in luxury sales, as evidenced by a slew of store openings in Paris.
Buccellati is the latest brand to plant a flagship on Rue de la Paix. The Italian jeweler has relocated from neighboring Place Vendôme to new digs spanning 2,150 square feet. The store, which joins the new Piaget and Fred boutiques on the famous thoroughfare, is part of an ambitious plan to renovate all of Buccellati’s shops by 2017 and to double its current network in three to five years.
Christofle has opened its first dedicated jewelry store on the Left Bank. The 300-square-foot boutique, designed by artistic director Stéphane Parmentier, offers an exclusive version of its signature 925 line in pink gold pavéd with diamonds. The store design plays on the concept of light, with gleaming elements like a Muse mirror by Hervé Langlais setting off nude carpeting and walls.
With her new store across the road from Colette and a stone’s throw from Place Vendôme, New York-born fine jewelry designer Valérie Danenberg hopes to expand her customer base. The 375-square-foot boutique has a Thirties boudoir feel designed to highlight her Art Deco-style creations, which include a pair of earrings inspired by the Chrysler Building.
Paris-based jewelry house Gripoix, famous for its collaborations with labels including Chanel, Balmain, Dior and Givenchy, has opened its first Paris store since Marie Keslassy took over the pâte de verre, (“poured glass”) specialist in 2006. The space on Place des Victoires houses a boutique, studio, showroom and workshops.
— Joelle Diderich
1 Rue de la Paix, 75002
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
56 Rue du Four, 75006
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
1 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001
Hours: Monday, 2 to 7 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
14 Place des Victoires, 75002
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
MATHIS BAR COMEBACK: The trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club — in Paris, London and New York — and the Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (also in those three cities) have taken over the Mathis Bar, an institution in the City of Light. And Olivier Bon, Pierre-Charles Cros and Romée de Goriainoff are determined to get back its luster.
(Yves Saint Laurent, Françoise Sagan and Valentino Garavani were yesteryear regulars, and former owner Gérald Nanty was a key Paris nightlife figure for almost a half century. In more recent years, the restaurant and fashionable watering hole have attracted the likes of Kate Moss, Sofia Coppola and Charlotte Gainsbourg.)
The new owners have kept the decor intact. Behind the black door is a cocktail bar with fern-motif carpeting, red velvet benches, Art Nouveau chandeliers and paintings by Bernard Buffet.
On the cocktail menu, there’s the Bel de Nuit (named after a book on Nanty’s life, entitled “Bel de nuit, Gérald Nanty”) made with Cachaça Abelha, vermouth and lemon juice, and the “Bonjour Ivresse,” which is a play on Sagan’s novel “Bonjour Tristesse” — with Campari.
— Laure Guilbault
3 Rue Ponthieu, 75008
Hours: Restaurant and bar open daily from 7 p.m. until late
STANDARD TIME: Focused on all-time classics such as sweatshirts, cotton shirts and good plain tailoring in navy or gray, Maison Standard — the label traditionally sold only online — has gone for brick-and-mortar exposure. The brand recently open a small store, or “house,” as they call it, in the Upper Marais district.
Uriel Karsenti, the man behind the brand, explained the location operates more as a workshop: It’s open only during afternoons, and actual in-store sales are exclusively processed through Maison Standard’s Web site. (There’s no cashier in place.) Sometimes, if some items are out-of-stock, they will be shipped directly to customers.
“Our idea behind the store is to physically meet our customer, to explain and show the concept behind the products,” Karsenti said.
Here, clients can touch and try on clothes, and learn about all the steps to make them in a special corner showing the work that goes into a piece of clothing. The first one to be featured is a white cotton shirt.
Maison Standard will soon add a retouching service, as well as offer some customization on shirts and jackets.
— Laurent Folcher
25 Rue de Poitou, 75003
Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday by appointment, Thursday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m.
HORSE PROUD: Parfums de Marly has just opened its first Paris boutique, on the tony Rue Cambon.
The fragrance label — which is inspired by Louis XV, his passion for horses and Marly castle dedicated to their well-being — inaugurated the 278-square-foot store in December. It carries the label’s full product assortment, which includes four women’s perfumes, 12 unisex fragrances, scented candles, cuff links, scarves and braided bracelets.
The shop’s decor, with a black-and-white marble floor, chandelier and molding, gives a strong nod to the 18th century.
Parfums de Marly already has one freestanding location in Moscow, and another is slated to open in New York shortly.
— Jennifer Weil
Parfums de Marly
26 Rue Cambon, 75001
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
NEW DIGS: After nine years spent in its jewel-box store on Rue de Sévigné in the Marais, leather goods and accessory designer Isaac Reina has moved his sleek and luxurious collections into a new location, next to Musée Picasso.
The plain white space, which used to be an art gallery, is well suited to Reina’s minimal and arty creations, which are aligned on big raw plywood cubes and shelves inspired by American artist Donald Judd. This new location, if a bit off the busy shopping streets, offers the brand more space and greater visibility than before, with its 777 square feet and big corner shop windows.
Handbags, travel bags and small leather goods are made of elaborate constructions in vegetable-tanned leather in warm, natural shades or in more showy styles, such as a silver mirror finish or a cow skin that looks like splattered paint.
True to his creations and the former function of the location, the designer intends to host exhibitions to fill the pristine walls.
— Laurent Folcher
12 Rue de Thorigny, 75003
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
FINE FARE: Histoires, one of Paris’ hidden and most exclusive locations, is a “restaurant-within-a-restaurant” that seats just 20.
Located behind a hidden door at the back of a room in Mathieu Pacaud’s Hexagone restaurant at 85 Avenue Kléber, has attracted the likes of Benjamin Millepied and Natalie Portman. Designed by architects Gilles & Boissier, Histoires features alcoves, frescos and a piano.
“I dream of Maxim’s. It was chic. It was elegant. People came dressed up. They met and mingled at the bar. It was an era. I want to re-create that,” Pacaud said.
Pacaud and his father were chosen to cook for President Obama and French President François Hollande during Paris’ recent climate summit at L’Ambroisie, the three Michelin-star restaurant they own together.
At Histoires, Pacaud has high gastronomic goals, too.
“We use the most luxurious products,” he said. “We recently inked a deal to get albino caviar, and we are working on the techniques of permeation — by which one product absorbs the flavors of another to create an alchemy.”
The menu includes sole cooked in clay crust with mushrooms and sea urchins, and chicken roasted with walnut butter, gnocchi and sage.
Next up: In April, the chef is plotting the reopening of Paris establishment Le Divellec in partnership with Jean-Louis Costes.
— Laure Guilbault
85 Avenue Kléber, 75016
Hours: Lunch on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday; Dinner Tuesday to Saturday
SERIAL ARTISTS: An Andy Warhol exhibition is on tap in the City of Light, with a show at the Musée d’Art Moderne focused on the serial aspect of his work. From his provocative “Flowers” to “Brillo Box” installations, his pieces immerse the viewer.
While showcasing highlights of Pablo Picasso’s career, the “Picasso.mania” exhibition at the Grand Palais offers a new take on the extent of Spain’s most famous painter’s impact on artists ranging from David Hockney to Emir Kusturica. Their contemporary works, installed according to groups of artists or themes, are in a wide array of media.
Anselm Kiefer is the subject of a retrospective for the first time in 30 years, at the Centre Pompidou. From his iconic paintings of the Seventies to last year’s project based on the Kabbalah, the German artist’s career is thoroughly examined in 10 thematic rooms.
Over on the Left Bank, the Institut du Monde Arabe is taking people to Egypt and plunging them into the myth of Osiris by exploring the rituals linked to the god of the dead. Two-hundred-and-fifty artifacts, including recent discoveries — fascinating results of underwater archeological excavations — are on display, with some taken out their country of origin for the first time.
Prior to his retrospective in Brussels later this year, controversial photographer Andres Serrano is offering Paris a glimpse at his Cuban works. Capturing the true essence of the island, his powerful portraits and interiors are for sale at the Piasa auction house.
No stranger to the fashion world, Richard Haines is showing his drawings for the first time in France. The former stylist has had his works recently highlighted in collaborations with Prada and Dries Van Noten, and now in the Huberty & Breyne gallery in an individual show.
— Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant
“Warhol Unlimited,” through Feb. 7
Musée d’Art Moderne
11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
“Picasso.mania,” through Feb. 29
Grand Palais, Galeries Nationales
Square Jean Perrin entrance, 75008
Hours:Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
“Anselm Kiefer,” through April 18
Place Georges Pompidou, 75004
Hours: Wednesday to Monday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
“Osiris, Egypt’s Sunken Mysteries,” through March 6
Institut du Monde Arabe
1 Rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 75005
Hours: Tuesday to Thursday, 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday, 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
“Andres Serrano – Cuba,” through Jan. 29
118 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
“Haines — A Private Line,” through Feb. 6
Huberty & Breyne Gallery
91 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
Hours: Wednesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.