There is no shortage of ways to fill up downtime in the City of Light this Paris Fashion Week. Here, a smattering of some of the latest and greatest.
SPARE ROOM: Stouls marked its 10th anniversary with the opening of its first store in Paris. Designed by India Mahdavi, the minimal space is conceived like a walk-in wardrobe, where the leather creations of designer Aurélia Stouls are displayed on gilded brass rails set off by gray velvet curtains and a sanded 19th-century parquet floor.
This story first appeared in the September 24, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Further openings are scheduled to coincide with Paris Fashion Week.
Maison Kitsuné is crossing the river to open its second Paris store at 38 Rue Madame on the Left Bank. The space, designed by architecture firm Numéro111, will bow on Thursday and designers Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki have created a capsule collection to mark the occasion.
Vespucci Group, the Turkish leather and shearling specialist, is setting up a flagship for its in-house brand VSP at 19 Rue Debelleyme. The store, slated to open Wednesday, will stock the first of a series of three capsule collections designed for VSP by Hussein Chalayan.
— JOELLE DIDERICH AND PAULINA SZMYDKE
36 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001
Open Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
NEXT: Castel >>
VIPS ONLY: Castel, Paris’ iconic private club in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, is set to reopen on Thursday, backed by a high-profile group. Among its 16 new founding partners are Jacques-Antoine Granjon, founder and chief executive officer of Vente-Privée; restaurateur Thierry Costes; Galeries Lafayette’s Guillaume and Nicolas Houzé; EPI president Christopher Descours; Château Pétrus’ Jean Moueix; Caviar Kaspia’s Ramon Mac-Crohon; Etam’s Laurent Milchior, and the Benzaquen brothers behind the Ken and Klay sports clubs.
The aim was to get back to the Castel of yesteryear — notably the Sixties, when Serge Gainsbourg, Pierre Bergé and Juliette Gréco lit up Paris. André Saraiva — another partner in the venture — was chosen for the club’s artistic direction.
Thomas Lenthal, System magazine’s art director, decorated the space. “We have known the place since we were teenagers. We dug [into] our sentimental memory of [it],” Lenthal said. He recalled meeting French illustrator Roland Topor the first time he went to Castel. “He was like a god to me. There has always been a mix of generations there and a special atmosphere,” added Lenthal.
Kept were Castel’s red façade and walls, plus its 18th-century floor tiles. Guests dine in a library filled with erotic books and art. Olympia Le-Tan designed the waitresses’ outfits, while Jean-Philippe Delhomme made a “Wall of Fame” fresco representing famous guests, ranging from Andy Warhol and Mick Jagger to Victoire de Castellane. Meanwhile, Byredo’s Ben Gorham created Castel’s scent.
Entrance is open to members only, and membership is based on sponsorship by one of the founding partners.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
15 Rue Princesse, 75006
Open to members Tuesday and Wednesday, from 10 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday, from 11 p.m.
Restaurant open Tuesday to Saturday, 8 p.m.-1 a.m.
A membership costs 500 euros, or $642 at current exchange, yearly
NEXT: Hedi Slimane’s ‘Sonic’ >>
SONIC YOUTH: Legends like Lou Reed, Brian Wilson and Keith Richards rub shoulders with newcomers in Hedi Slimane’s show of black-and-white portraits of musicians, on display at the Fondation Pierre Bergé — Yves Saint Laurent until Jan. 11. “Sonic” is drawn from a body of work spanning 15 years that reflects the designer’s obsession with music and youth culture.
A wall contains a patchwork of images featured in “London Birth of a Cult,” Slimane’s out-of-print book tracking the emergence of British rock bands like Babyshambles, Arctic Monkeys and The Paddingtons. A video installation juxtaposes the London pictures with later images from California, where Slimane now lives and works.
The creative director of Saint Laurent routinely uses songs by up-and-coming bands in soundtracks for his shows and Web movies. The exhibition includes portraits of some of his more recent finds, such as Clementine Creevy, the teenage lead singer of Los Angeles band Cherry Glazerr.
— JOELLE DIDERICH
“Sonic” — Hedi Slimane
Sept. 18, 2014, to Jan. 11, 2015
Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent
3 Rue Léonce Reynaud, 75016
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m.
TREATMENT TIME: For a relaxing break, there’s The Peninsula Spa, which opened in August in tandem with the hotel’s debut in Paris, on the Right Bank. The 20,000-square-foot location includes a relaxation room, hammam, sauna and eight single and two double-treatment rooms fitted out with wooden fixtures and floors plus slate sinks. The service menu is extensive, using primarily Espa products and, for facials, Biologique Recherche skin care. The 120-minute Yin Yang Vitality treatment for stress relief using warm herbal poultices, body massage and head massage with cool jade stones is 340 euros, or $436 at current exchange, while the 90-minute restructuring and smoothing facial is 290 euros, or $372. Guests can also indulge in the 72-by-16-foot indoor pool.
Over on the Left Bank is the recently opened 2,220-square-foot split-level Cayola Spa. Nestled close to the Musée Rodin, it has six treatment rooms. Using Valmont products, there’s the likes of the one-hour moisturizing facial, which goes for 115 euros, or $148; one-hour Snow Brightening Treatment for 145 euros, or $186, and 90-minute antiage facial for 185 euros, or $237. Valmont is also used in hair treatments, while massages are done with Kos oil. Thirty- or 45-minute sessions are available on a water bike, and Cayola bills itself to be one of two Paris-based locations using Le Cube 02 machine for an oxygen treatment helping to regenerate cells.
— JENNIFER WEIL
The Peninsula Spa
19 Avenue Kléber, 75016
Open daily, 9 a.m.-9 p.m.
57 Rue de Bourgogne, 75007
Open Tuesday to Wednesday and Friday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m., and Thursday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
NEXT: Caffè Stern >>
CAFFÈ STYLE: The Passage des Panoramas, among Paris’ first covered galleries and a longtime favorite of city residents due to its famous tenants such as the historic French engraver Stern and baker Pâtisserie Félix, has become a foodie destination yet again.
After hot spots Noglu, a gluten-free restaurant, and Passage 53, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a Japanese chef, it has a new eatery — Caffè Stern. Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo, owners of Gran Caffè Quadri in Venice, and David Lanher, the restaurateur behind Paris’ Racines and Vivant, are behind the opening of the Italian-style coffeehouse in Stern’s former location.
Philippe Starck designed the interior, which consists of a series of connecting rooms with wood paneling and furniture. “We barely transformed the historical landmark; we just improved the existing magic,” Starck stated.
The place is open throughout the day, beginning with a breakfast comprised of croissants and extra-virgin olive oil brioches, followed by a midday aperitivo of cichetti, Venetian-style tapas such as cod brandade with fried polenta. All tapas are 3.50 euros, or $4.50 at current exchange. The lunch and dinner menu includes Alajmo classics like spaghetti alla carbonara and fried scampi with bottarga sauce, priced at 18 euros and 48 euros, or $23 and $63, respectively.
The caffè-bistrot seats 55 inside and 25 outside in the passageway.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
47 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 8:30 a.m-12 a.m., with lunch from 12:30 p.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, 7:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
NEXT: Le Nail Suite 601 >>
NAILING IT: Eco-friendly nail-polish brand Kure Bazaar has just launched a dedicated suite for nails in the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme hotel. The 333-square-foot, brightly colored space offers the collection’s range of 60 colors for use in services including a 20-minute nail shaping and color going for 30 euros, or $38.50 at current exchange. A manicure and pedicure combination is 100 euros, or $128.25, with an additional 20 euros, or $25.65, for a French manicure. Treatments for men are also on the menu, and all services can be done in guests’ rooms. On demand, food maybe served in Kure Bazaar’s Suite 601, as well.
— JENNIFER WEIL
Le Nail Suite 601
Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme
5 Rue de la Paix, 75002
Open Monday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
NEXT: Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée >>
GREEN THEME: Alain Ducasse has waved goodbye to meat. But in the newly opened Plaza Athénée, the Michelin-starred French chef says hello to a “holy trilogy” made of fish, vegetables and cereals. “As a chef, I have a responsibility,” said Ducasse, stressing the necessity of moving toward a healthier and more environmentally friendly way of eating, after a screening of “Naturalness,” a film about sourcing of the products and the radical shift taken by the hotel, which has just reopened after a 10-month renovation.
Dabbling in the locavore movement, the chef has teamed up with Alain Baraton, head gardener of the Trianon and Grand Park of Versailles, for the supply of vegetables, including sorrel, squash, cabbage, onions, artichokes and rhubarb. Vegetables from the queen’s garden at the chateau are featured on the menu and served with crushed hazelnuts. (Keep in mind, meat lovers can still order meat, even though there is none shown on the menu.)
New dishes include quinoa with shellfish; marinated tomatoes with sesame tofu, and monkfish with wheat stewed in tajine.
Desserts went through a similar health-conscious treatment, now with less sugar, butter and cream. Diners can chose, for instance, a lemon dessert with kombu seaweed and tarragon.
Red meat may be out, but red wines are still in. “There are very good red wine pairings with white fish and cereals,” Ducasse said.
“We want to go beyond the codes of traditional gastronomy,” explained François Delahaye, general manager of the Plaza Athénée, pointing to the eschewing of tablecloths as a radical move for a three-star restaurant.
The dining room, fully refurbished by Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku, has kept its opulence. The chandelier garnished with Swarovski crystals remains hanging from the ceiling, while there are also Georg Jensen silver-steel bowls. There is a cabinet of curiosities featuring Baccarat’s Harcourt crystalware, silver pieces on loan by the Christofle museum, plus Lalique carafes and Champagne coupes, all inside an illuminated showcase.
“We are doing haute couture,” said Ducasse.
The “garden-marine” menu is priced at 380 euros, or $490 at current exchange, excluding drinks. Lunch starts at 250 euros, or $322.
The hotel features 208 rooms and suites including six new rooms and eight new suites.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée
25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008
Tel: + 33-1-53-67-65-00
Open Thursday and Friday, 12:45 p.m-2:15 p.m., and Monday to Friday, 7:45 p.m-10:15 p.m.
ROYAL TREATMENT: A stone’s throw from Place de l’Etoile is the new restaurant Victoria 1836, located on the second floor of L’Arc, the club and restaurant damaged by a fire two years ago. The new owner, Benjamin Patou, a descendant of Jean Patou, has tapped Paris designer Sarah Lavoine to decorate the restaurant. The dining room, which seats 130, is bright, with large windows facing the Arc de Triomphe, high ceilings and mirrors.
Lavoine said she used dark-chocolate marble and beech wood to create a Parisian atmosphere. There is also a large Ellen von Unwerth photo on one wall. Chef Yannick Alléno was consulted for the menu, and he put in place protégé Alexandre Auger, a former chef at Le Meurice’s Dali restaurant, to run the kitchen. Appetizers include a red tuna tataki, honey and wasabi mayonnaise and burratina with cherry tomatoes and basil. Main courses include a truffle croque-monsieur, Black Angus rib steak and Scottish salmon. For dessert, there is a kalamansi lemon tart, meringue tart and vanilla profiteroles with chocolate. À la carte prices start from 55 euros, or $71 at current exchange. The lunch menu is 36 euros, or $46, for two courses and 45 euros, or $58, for three.
On the ground floor, L’Arc club, newly designed by Lenny Kravitz, is set to reopen in the first week of October.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
NANA POWER: Niki de Saint Phalle might have been a model, but it’s not on a runway that her work is being exhibited at the Grand Palais. Her bold and innovative oeuvre is displayed through her iconic women, the “Nanas,” the subversive “Shoots” paintings and other creations in a wide array of media.
Then it’s from another angle that Peter Lindbergh examines the female body, with his minimalist style, at the Gagosian gallery, where large-scale works emphasize the glamour of his famous models.
It makes sense that William Eggleston would be the focus of an exhibit at the foundation Henri Cartier-Bresson, of which he was a great admirer. From the black-and-white photographs from the Fifties to the color shots of the Sixties, his work features the banality of everyday objects in a poetic way.
For a more contemporary take on photography, art center Le BAL has invited five French artists to explore the theme of travel by investigating highways, resulting in a show of mystical photographs, including ones by conceptual master Sophie Calle. Meanwhile, in the outskirts of Paris, Gilbert & George are showcasing their monumental pictures of the urban jungle of London’s East End.
Painting gets the spotlight, too, with Marcel Duchamp in a show examining what he vowed to destroy — classical figurative art. The lesser-known works from his career, which mostly come from American museums, are featured through drawings, nudes and Cubist pieces leading up to his masterpiece “Le Grand Verre.”
A retrospective of acclaimed Japanese artist Hokusai begins on the last day of fashion week at the Grand Palais. This is an opportunity to enjoy his prints and silk paintings, some of which are so fragile that they will be replaced halfway through the length of the exhibit, in November. His direct influence is demonstrated on the other side of Place de la Concorde, where a revealing exhibition is devoted to painter Émile Bernard and his cloisonnist style, a result of the Japanism trend in the European art from the 19th century.
— ANNE-AYMONE GHEERBRANT
“Niki de Saint Phalle,” through Feb. 2, 2015
Grand Palais, Champs Elysées entrance, 75008
Open Wednesday to Saturday. 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday to Monday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
“Peter Lindbergh,” through Nov. 22
4 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
“William Eggleston – From Black and White to Color,” through Dec. 21
2 Impasse Lebouis, 75014
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 1 p.m.-6:30 p.m.; Wednesday, 1 p.m.-8:30 p.m., and Saturday. 1 p.m.-6:45 p.m.
“S’il y a lieu je pars avec vous,” through Oct. 26
6 Impasse de la Défense, 75018
Open Wed.-Fri. 12 p.m.-8 p.m., Thu. 12 p.m.-10 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
“Gilbert & George – Scapegoat pictures,” through Nov. 15
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac
69 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 93500 Pantin
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.
“Marcel Duchamp – Painting, Even,” through Jan. 5, 2015
Place Georges Pompidou, 75004
Open Wednesday to Monday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
“Hokusai (1760-1849),” Oct. 1 through Jan. 18, 2015
Grand Palais, Clemenceau entrance, 75008
Open Wednesday to Friday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saurday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m and Monday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
Closed Nov. 21-30.
“Emile Bernard (1868-1914),” through Jan. 5, 2015
Musée de l’Orangerie
Place de la Concorde, Jardin des Tuileries, 75001
Open Wednesday to Monday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.
NEXT: La Barbière de Paris >>
MAKING THE CUT: Le Barbière de Paris is a new barbershop devoted to guys in the City of Light. The Right Bank salon, measuring 2,150 square feet, offers a wide range of services, including cuts, consultations and specific facial-hair-related requests.
Product brands used here include Acqua di Parma, Integrall, Plisson and Barbe N Blues.
A basic shampoo, cut and style goes for 27 euros, or $34.65 at current exchange; a shave between eyebrows is 4 euros, or $5.15.
— MEGHAN MC CARTY
La Barbière de Paris
7 Rue Bertin Poirée, 75001
Open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.
NEXT: Pavillon Ledoyen >>
GRANDE DAME: Pavillon Ledoyen, a Paris institution of gastronomy, is being shaken up by Yannick Alléno. The chef of the Cheval Blanc in Courchevel (and previously Le Meurice’s chef) has just taken over the culinary direction of the three Michelin-starred restaurant on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées.
The chef — who is starting a “new cycle” with what he calls “modern cuisine” — serves innovative dishes, such as the pike fine mousse in Vienna bread with mushroom extract with lobster coral or the poached poularde with panais extract and walnut water marshmallow under trumpet mushrooms. For dessert, there is a sea salt sablé with creamy dark chocolate and Bourbon vanilla ice cream.
There is a four-course menu for lunch at 128 euros, or $164 at current exchange, and a tasting menu at 295 euros, or $378.50, for dinner.
The dining room has had a small face-lift over the summer, with new curtains, chairs, chandeliers and tableware, but keeps its formal elegance.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
Carré des Champs-Elysées
8 rue Dutuit, 75008
Tel.: +33- 1-53-05-10-01
Open from Monday to Saturday, except Saturday lunch
FOOD TEMPLE: Galeries Lafayette is raising the food bar.
The Paris department store has moved its upscale gourmet division, dubbed “Maison & Gourmet,” across the street to a bigger venue stretching 81,000 square feet, where one half is dedicated to food and the other to the store’s luxurious homeware offering.
Among the highlights are some 14 food bars, including Alain Ducasse and his rich selection of high-end chocolates, Japanese pastry chef Sadaharu Aoki, who proposes a green tea éclair among other Franco-Japanese fusions, and Maison Petrossian, ready to feed caviar and smoked salmon to hungry shoppers.
The basement has been transformed into an imposing supermarket deluxe, stocking some exclusive delicacies such as Cape and Cape (specialized in African tea), Favarger (Swiss chocolates) and Maison du miel (French honey), while the second floor now houses a wine cellar.
An Alain Ducasse cooking school is said to follow shortly.
And don’t miss artisanal ice-cream maker Pedone’s peach sorbet — it’s arguably the best in town.
— PAULINA SZMYDKE
Galeries Lafayette Gourmet & Maison
35 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009
Lafayette Gourmet: Open Monday to Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.
Lafayette Maison: Open Monday to Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-8 p.m., and Thursday until 9 p.m.
DOCTOR’S ORDERS: Dr. Pierre Ricaud’s newly renovated institute in Paris’ 15th arrondissement is centered around the label’s bespoke facial cream brand, Ma Crème sur Mesure (or My Made-to-Measure Cream). A table featured in the selling space displays the concept, which includes eight active ingredients and two base creams chosen according to results from a brief questionnaire that can be filled out (either manually or digitally) in a manner of minutes. A 50-ml. jar retails for 70 euros, or $89.80.
Also stocked in this location — which will act as a template design-wise for future and revamped Dr. Pierre Ricaud stores — is the Yves Rocher-owned brand’s entire 200-reference product offer, which also includes makeup and fragrance.
The selling space is about 300 square feet, and there are two treatment rooms measuring about 210 square feet each, where services include facials, manicures and pedicures.
— JENNIFER WEIL
Institut Dr. Pierre Ricaud
71 Rue du Commerce, 75015
Open Monday, 2 p.m. to 7:30 p.m., and Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
GREEN SHOOTS: France’s ready-to-wear industry appears to be turning a corner after six years of consecutive declines.
Though overall clothing sales were down 0.6 percent in the first half of 2014, consumption of women’s rtw was up 1.3 percent compared to the same period last year, according to the French Federation of Women’s Ready-to-Wear.
French females aged 13 and older spent 5.1 billion euros, or $7 billion, on clothing during the six-month period, despite a morose economic context. All dollar rates are calculated at average exchange rates for the period concerned.
“Female spending in the first half was boosted by an early spring and warm temperatures that favored the sale of new collections, in particular small items,” said François-Marie Grau, general secretary of the federation, noting sales were up 4.8 percent in volume terms. “We can expect the second semester to be in line with the first and that we will there see a slight increase in consumption of women’s ready-to-wear in 2014 as a whole,” he added.
The outlook for 2015 is also positive, with the weakening of the euro boosting the attractiveness of French goods, amid a gradual return of growth in Europe, a forecast acceleration of the growth momentum in the United States and dynamic demand from Asia, according to Grau.
Exports of French women’s rtw rose 2.6 percent in the first half to more than 1.4 billion euros, or $1.9 billion. Exports to China and Hong Kong were up 7.7 percent during the period, while the U.K. registered a 20.5 percent jump. However, Russia dropped out of the top 10 export markets following a 24.6 percent fall in sales.
— JOELLE DIDERICH