PARIS — Patrick Roger, an “enfant terrible” on the gourmet scene who speeds around Paris on his Ducati, is often called the Rodin of chocolate.

While he produces up to six million pieces a year, sold in his seven boutiques around the French capital, he also spends a considerable amount of time sculpting sweet wonders. For instance, last Christmas he decided to make a 33-foot-high chocolate Christmas tree. He then gave pieces of it to donors for the French Telethon.

This story first appeared in the June 13, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Although his factory door is only 8 feet wide and the ceiling 33 feet high, it hardly restrains his imagination. “It’s difficult for me to stay in the framework,” says the slender 42-year-old, who celebrated the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall in 2009 with a 49-foot chocolate reconstruction.

Once he made a life-size elephant that could hardly be moved and eventually collapsed, leaving more than 3,300 pounds of chocolate shattered across the floor.

Recently, Roger collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld and Magnum, the ice cream brand, to create a hotel suite entirely made of chocolate with a chocolate sculpture of Lagerfeld’s sidekick model, Baptiste Giabiconi, lounging on a quilted white chocolate bedspread.

“That’s the kind of experience that makes you grow,” Roger says of his project with the Chanel couturier.

Roger can be as wild and humorous with his creations as he is uncompromising with his products’ quality.

Like one of his 80,000 bees — he also makes honey — he constantly flits among his various chocolate racks sampling his production so it meets his standards. The son of a baker, Roger started his professional career at age 15 as a pastry apprentice, discovering the wonders of cocoa three years later. “I realized chocolate would fulfill all my dreams. It was my passport to the world,” he says.

His inventiveness and talent earned him the highest distinction in the French gastronomical world, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, at only 33 years of age.

“The harder you work, the more creative you get,” says Roger, who plans to open his first store in another chocolate mecca, Brussels, before the end of the year.

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