LONDON — Angie Mar is bringing her unapologetically meaty dishes from her New York restaurant, the Beatrice Inn, to London.
She is taking over New Street Grill right outside Liverpool Street Station for a week starting Monday, and she will be serving her signature dishes, such as scallops Alexandra, roast duck flambé and 60-day dry-aged côte de boeuf to a nation where the Sunday roast originated.
“My mom grew up bouncing back and forth between Taipei and London. So for me, this is like home. I was exposed to a lot of British and French cooking when I was a kid. The meat was just what we ate — we always had a roast on Sundays. My dad always made lamb chops. So for me, that’s the food I want to eat,” Mar said at a private dinner she hosted on Saturday.
“The pop-up is a proper takeover,” she said. “This place is tremendously beautiful and very similar to my restaurant in terms of look and feel.”
“What we’ve done is transport everything, from the food to the staff — a lot of the staff tonight, they’re directly at my restaurant. My cooks are here, so they’ll be cooking the food as well. Even to the soundtrack, this is the soundtrack from my restaurant. We really just wanted to give everybody the experience of what it’s like to eat at the Beatrice Inn,” she added.
If you happened to watch the “steak” episode from season two David Chang’s Netflix series “Ugly Delicious,” released three days before the pop-up, you might recognize a few staffers.
Mar also made an appearance on the show. She showcased her luxurious 160-day dry-aged Tomahawk rib eye with lobster butter and truffles in her restaurant, which used to be a speakeasy in the Twenties, an Italian red sauce joint for 50 years and a nightclub. She bought the place from Vanity Fair’s former editor in chief Graydon Carter in 2016.
Under Mar’s ownership, Beatrice Inn continues to be a hot spot for New York’s who’s who to eat in West Village, and she documented the bustling dining scene with her new cookbook “Butcher + Beast.” There is even a waiting list for the dry-aged rib eye.
Unfortunately, she won’t be serving the dish in London, but her 60-day dry-aged côte de boeuf with charred prawn butter is scrumptious. Especially when it’s served with Pommes Anna and melted Gorgonzola cheese.
The roast duck flambé was another show stopper for the night. Flaming liquor was poured over the duck to permeate the dining room with an enchanting smoky aroma.
“When I was a kid, I used to go to Chinatown and be obsessed with the Peking ducks hanging in the windows. So the duck flambé looks like a Peking duck, but it tastes like the roast duck my dad would make on Christmas and Thanksgiving. It’s pink all the way through like a ham would be. It’s a 14-day process, we dry age the duck, then we cure it for another five days, then we smoke it, then we slow roast it,” Mar said.
The milk braised pork shoulder, braised oxtail and salt-baked Dover sole were also impressive in terms of flavor combination and innovation. Green peppercorns, which are traditionally used in Sichuan cuisine, turned out to be an excellent ingredient to go with the fish fillet.
For dessert, Mar served her signature bone marrow and bourbon crème brûlée and buttermilk fried chicken. Yes, fried chicken. Just in case some guests were still hungry after the 10-course dinner.