“No, no, no. I’m not working! No, no, no, no work — just dancing!” cried Pierre Hardy as Chaka Khan’s “I Feel For You” blared from the loudspeakers.
It was Saturday night in Paris and the footwear designer was at the grand Leblanc-Barbedienne mansion for a disco party marking 15 years of his namesake label. The venue was his former showroom and he was putting it up for sale, though he declined to say what he planned to do with the proceeds.
This was neither the time nor the place to talk business, anyway. Let’s focus on the disco. “I should jump up there and spin some music,” said Julien David with an eye on DJ Virgil Abloh’s booth. Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena was hoping “No More Tears (Enough is Enough)” by Barbra Streisand and Donna Summer would come on. “I love the way it slowly gets more dramatic,” he said. Dancing around him under a giant disco ball were also Haider Ackermann, Hidetoshi Nakata, Atlanta de Cadenet and Alexandre Mattiussi. At some point late in the night, disco turned to hip-hop and Yeezus himself, Kanye West, Paris Fashion Week’s uncontested ubiquitor, made a splashy entrance. Kim Kardashian and Theophilus London tagged along though little North West apparently stayed back at the hotel.
West and London couldn’t help themselves and jumped on the turntables to the roar of the crowd. Kardashian enjoyed the spectacle from a safe distance.
The fashion establishment turned out for another anniversary Friday night — 25 years of the ANDAM prize.
All over the Hôtel Potocki were elder statesmen of the industry — the organization’s president Pierre Bergé and its founder Nathalie Dufour; Kering’s François-Henri Pinault, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Pierre-Yves Roussel and Swarovski’s Nadja Swarovski — and its new wave, like former prize winners Mattiussi, Gaspard Yurkievich and Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who reminisced about receiving the prestigious honor, not to mention the money it came with.
“I was able to do my very first show thanks to ANDAM,” said Baptista, a two-time winner.
“For me, it was less financially helpful than it is now, but still it was great,” said Yurkievich, who won back in 1998, when the financial reward was significantly smaller than the 250,000 euros, or $318,000, that this year’s laureate, Iris van Herpen, is getting.
While the event was a formal occasion that saw France’s new minister of culture, Fleur Pellerin, promising support for the industry, most of the crowd — Gareth Pugh, Farida Khelfa, Mary Katrantzou, Caroline de Maigret, Mia Moretti and Coco Rocha — wasn’t interested in such lofty topics. Charlotte Dellal, for instance, talked about her mismatched Delfina Delettrez earrings: one dangling an eye, nose and mouth.
“I like strong noses,” she declared, lifting hers dramatically for effect.
Bergé, though, had a few strong words of wisdom for the young talent in the room.
“I’m worried that they will go down the wrong route,” he said. “Fashion exists because of all these young designers. But the people who do fashion best today are people like Zara and H&M. That’s fashion to me. You need to offer the price that goes with the product and stop dreaming.”