Best known for flavoring Earl Grey tea, and widely used in cosmetics and aromatherapy, bergamot also can play a role in the kitchen. The flavor of the citrus, which resembles a lemon or an orange, is concentrated in its skin and zest. The most reputed bergamot grows in the Calabria region in Italy and is best when picked from the end of November through January. Stephane Colé, the chef from Spoon in Paris, will use it for a sauce for his steamed bass. “Citruses are very interesting in cooking,” says Colé. “Both for the flavor and the decoration of the plate.”