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For its new high-jewelry collection, Chanel looked to one of the most enduring symbols of the house: the camellia flower, prized by Gabrielle Chanel for its perfect symmetry and lack of scent.

This story first appeared in the January 25, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The 99-piece Jardin de Camélias line is Chanel’s first dedicated entirely to the bloom. It includes diamond dazzlers and black-and-white variations, but also pieces set with a rainbow of colored stones, including opals, multicolored sapphires, rubellites, mandarin garnets and tourmalines. “We wanted to bring some color to this floral world,” said Benjamin Comar, international director of Chanel Fine Jewelry. “It was important to rework the camellia, which is a strong symbol for us, but to do it in a different way than in the past.”

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The pièce de résistance is the Camélia Exquis necklace, featuring a blinding array of diamonds in myriad cuts. Equally impressive are the collection’s bold rings, which have gained in volume and diameter since the house launched its signature diamond camellia ring in 1993. On some of the new stunners, diamond-encrusted petals were worked in 3-D relief, while the Camélia Solaire incorporated delicately embossed yellow gold.

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