Seven For All Mankind is looking to add fuel to the fire of the flared jeans trend with the introduction of its Tailorless line for fall and holiday.
The line is designed to allow women of average height to reduce or eliminate the need to have their flares hemmed.
The Los Angeles-based premium jeans marketer, part of VF Corp.’s Contemporary Brands coalition, believes it has a solution to one of the anomalies of the flared fit. The industry standard for inseams for a flare is 35 inches, but that specification is meant for a woman who is 5 feet, 9 inches.
With the average American woman standing between 5 foot, 4 inches and 5 foot, 5 inches, and “petite” jeans designed for women 5 foot, 3 inches and below, the majority of women in the U.S. — about 90 percent — are currently unable to buy flared jeans that don’t require substantial tailoring.
And that tailoring can often take a bountiful Seventies retro-style flare and turn it into something far less stylish and roomy.
Seven’s Tailorless flares come with a 32- or 33-inch inseam, either eliminating the need for tailoring altogether (“Tailorless,” in Seven’s parlance) or, for those in the 5-foot, 2-inch to 5-foot, 4-inch height range, reducing the need for hemming that could deflate the flare and allowing its integrity to be preserved (“Tailor Less”).
“We’ve been seeing a change in silhouette since last year,” Barry Miguel, who’s been president of Seven For All Mankind since 2011, told WWD. “It started with the boyfriend’s return and the relaxed skinny and the vintage high-waist look, and that led into the boot cut among the early adopters and the flare this spring. That took us back to our roots as a brand and we’re continuing to see the flare develop.
“But the wider leg trend has been showing up more and more,” he said. “We offered culottes. There are multiple signs of the wider leg being accepted.”
He estimated that the flare accounted for about 5 percent of Seven’s bottoms business last year, a figure he expects to reach about 15 percent this fall. “And we fully expect the Tailorless range to make up about 30 percent of flare sales during the second half of the year,” he said.
Fall offerings of the new line will hit retail in August and holiday items at the start of October. Retail prices are to range from $189 to $215.
The fall Tailorless assortment consists of three styles — A-Pocket in Slim Illusion Tried and True Blue, Dojo in Lake Blue and Ginger in Royal Broken Twill. Four pieces will be added to the line for holiday — Ginger with Released Hem in Bright Light Broken Twill, Dojo in Pretty Light Vintage, Pintuck Trouser in Sweet Light Indigo and True Rinsed.
One of the advantages of a less-modified flare, Miguel noted, was that it would help keep the purchaser’s footwear options open, whether she be inclined towards a boot, a wedge or a low heel.
“This doesn’t mean the whole industry is going flared,” he said. “The industry is moving on silhouettes again. This is about the woman feeling comfortable with new silhouettes. We’re simply trying to make the trend accessible for more women.”