By  on January 25, 2018

PARIS — Celebrating 20 years, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx on the final day of Paris Couture Week presented a showcase of 40 looks built around house codes, and integrating archive pieces still tacked with their storage tags. Case in point the opening cognac leather corset fashioned from a horse saddle that was from their very first collection, here strapped over a black hoodie.

The following exit — a shirtdress masquerading as a white cotton pillowcase, with a padded section strapped to the back and a square skirt embroidered with the designers’ initials, recalled their second collection, for spring 1999, where models stretched out on midcentury hospital beds before hitting the catwalk. Their military and lingerie obsessions were also intact, from a silhouette based on layers of stockings in nude tones, paired with a flipped, deconstructed jacket, to an army parachute skirt with a dramatic train.

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