PARIS — Celebrating 20 years, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx on the final day of Paris Couture Week presented a showcase of 40 looks built around house codes, and integrating archive pieces still tacked with their storage tags. Case in point the opening cognac leather corset fashioned from a horse saddle that was from their very first collection, here strapped over a black hoodie.The following exit — a shirtdress masquerading as a white cotton pillowcase, with a padded section strapped to the back and a square skirt embroidered with the designers’ initials, recalled their second collection, for spring 1999, where models stretched out on midcentury hospital beds before hitting the catwalk. Their military and lingerie obsessions were also intact, from a silhouette based on layers of stockings in nude tones, paired with a flipped, deconstructed jacket, to an army parachute skirt with a dramatic train.A capsule collection of 10 T-shirts designed in collaboration with stylist B. Åkerlund, based around the house logo, the red cross, were folded in.Other flashbacks included rabbit fur used on skirts, waistcoats and boots, a cool craft paper trench, and a corset based on a shrunken jacket. It all felt darkly romantic and familiarly creepy, with touches like Hannibal Lecter-style masks.Presented in protestant chapel L’Oratoire du Louvre, the show served as a memory jogger for the design duo’s inventiveness and a branding exercise as they embark on their next chapter, with a strategy hooked on clothing capsules inspired by the couture-week presentations and developing the footwear, as a key pillar of the business.
Exclusive: @longchamp is planning to stage its first official runway show at New York Fashion Week this fall. The French leather goods firm has expanded into ready-to-wear as part of its repositioning as a lifestyle brand. The show, scheduled for September 8, will also cap the brand’s 70th anniversary celebration. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
The Duke and Duchess of Sussex undertook their first overseas engagement as a married couple in Dublin. The trip included multiple events and outfits changes, including this black dress by @emiliawickstead that Meghan Markle wore for a party at the British Ambassador’s home. #wwdfashion #royals
At 20 years old – and with an estimated net worth of $900 million - @kyliejenner is the youngest person to ever make @forbes’ annual list of America’s Richest #SelfMadeWomen. “It’s incredible to be recognized for something I’m so passionate about, and I’m really grateful for that. I’ve always loved makeup and worked really hard to bring the first lip kit to the market,” said Jenner on founding @kyliecosmetics. See who else is on the list on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @rainerhosch)
“The collection is inspired by Tulum and the Mayan Riviera – its laid-back luxury, life of cabanas, untouched coastline, natural habitats, exotic cocktails and jungle parties with renowned DJs,” said Matteo Maniatty, creative director and cofounder of @descendantofthieves, on the brand’s inspiration for its latest collection. See more designer sketches and inspirations on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #nyfwmens #nyfw
@riccardotisci17 is releasing a limited-edition capsule collection as part of his anticipated runway debut for @burberry in September. Delivered in a series of instant drops, this is the second Burberry capsule collection announced since Friday, when Tisci broke the news on his collaboration with @viviennewestwood. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
“It’s like a Cinderella story. You get a little fake, you get a little real, you put it together and voilà,” said legendary rapper Slick Rick, who helped pioneer the merge of luxury and streetwear. WWD’s @ariahughes spoke to @therulernyc about his jewelry collection, his collaboration with @bally and how the industry has evolved – link in bio. (📷: @kristaschlueter)
@ragandbone and @eminem are teaming up on a special capsule collection of streetwear pieces. Sold at a one-day pop-up in London’s Soho on Friday, the collection features three different T-shirt designs and a hoodie. The capsule is set to kick off the rest of Eminem’s shows in his European Revival Tour, which ends on Sunday. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion