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COTERIE:

 

Brand: H-ology

Designer and founder: Heezu Hwang

Background: A graduate of Parsons School of Design, Hwang has held design positions at Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, and G-III (Calvin Klein, Andrew Marc, Marc New York). She has designed handbags for the U.S. Polo Association, Carlos Falchi, CXL by Christian Lacroix and Catherine Malandrino, as well as Be & D. She launched her own handbag label in February.

Inspiration: “My inspiration is happiness,” said Hwang. She is offering two-sided leather clutches with two zippers, two-sided leather bags, and a camel cross-body cyclinder shape, which is easy and lightweight. A bestseller has been a square bag with flame handle.

Prices: Wholesale prices range from $90 to $200.

 

Brand: MA X 7 Fam, the 7 for All Mankind collaboration with Marques’Almedia

Designer: The Los Angeles denim company is doing a collaboration with Portuguese designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques’Almeida. Seven’s women’s designer is Jennifer Garcia and the design director for women’s is Larissa Noble.

Background: Marques and Almeida met while studying at Portugal’s CITEX fashion school and moved together to London to intern respectively at Vivienne Westwood and Preen. They also studied at Central Saint Martins and presented their final collection together. Marques’Almeida won the Emerging Womenswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards, and in May 2015 were awarded the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.

Inspiration: The collaboration is true to who Marques’Almeida is. There is wrapping detail, use of stripes and mixed media. The collection includes denim and woven dresses, shearling denim jackets and a railroad-stripe, high-waist flare jumpsuit. Among the retailers who have purchased the collection are Net-a-porter, Saks Fifth Avenue, Selfridges and Shopbop. The collaboration is for one season.

Prices: Wholesale prices range from $80 for a T-shirt to $105 for high-waist flare denim to $500 for leather bombers.

 

Brand: Bldwn

Design director: Shayla Guy

Background: Guy was a senior design director of Equipment Femme, a division of Dutch, LLC and earlier was a design director of women’s ready-to-wear at AG Jeans.

Inspiration: Bldwn has been relaunched with a new logo and brand. Previously a denim line, it is now a full ready-to-wear collection, owned by founders Matt and Emily Baldwin. Spring’s inspiration comes from American street photographer Mark Cohen’s photographs from the 1970s. The collection features an update of classic silhouettes in a mixing of cotton and nylon. The denim and T-shirts are produced in L.A., and the outerwear is manufactured in China and Vietnam. Key looks include the trench coat, denim jumpsuit with contrasting collar, denim jacket with slight bell sleeve and mixed media in denim jackets.

Prices: Wholesale prices range from $40 for T-shirts, $90 for cotton bottoms, $135 for outerwear to $265 for leather pieces.

 

Brand: R.G. Kane

Designer: Robert Kane

Background: Kane is a 2016 graduate of Parsons. Following graduation, he returned to his hometown of Los Angeles and worked for Raquel Allegra for two years. He then decided “to try my own thing,” he said.

Inspiration: “I try to do it in a sustainable way as possible,” said Kane, who uses recycled and dead stock fabrics. The line is designed for women, but can fit men as well. Each piece is one of a kind, and it takes three to make three. “Everything’s vintage,” he said, using family reunion sweatshirts, for example. He buys vintage pieces and reworks them.

Prices: Wholesale prices range from $65 for reassembled T-shirts to $100 for sweatshirts to $140 for a kimono dress.

 

Brand: Lanston

Creative director: Krisabelle Ann Tan

Background: Tan started Krisa and then launched Lanston nine years ago. The line began  with T-shirts but quickly expanded into a full collection epitomizing a downtown casual yet forward aesthetic. Three years ago, Lanston launched a sport division.

Inspiration: The collection, which is made in the U.S., is very “studio to streetwear.” Everything has moisture wicking, and some pieces have SPF in them. Styles have mesh and blocking, which brings sweat to the surface more quickly. Fabrics are from Brazil and Italy. Key pieces are a neon pullover with lightning-bolt leggings, a bra with removable pads and adjustable straps, lounge sets, casual blazers that elevate athleisure looks, and pastel and muted colorways. The line’s throw-overs do well.

Prices: Wholesale prices range from $35 to $70.

 

CABANA:

 

Brand: Sui by Anna Sui

Designer: Anna Sui

Background: With this contemporary-priced launch of Sui by Anna Sui, the designer plays off her romantic and whimsical aesthetic, incorporating the signature details and fabrications she is known for in her designer-priced collections. She used some archival prints, ruffles and cut-out details on the new accessibly priced collection.

Inspiration: The collection was inspired by Scandinavian folklore and street style. Sui showed signature baby doll dresses, velour tops with ruffle details, gingham pieces with crochet accents and needlepoint maxi dresses. The moody, darker floral prints were a hit with buyers walking the show.

Prices: Tops range from $58 to $92 wholesale; dresses from $98 to $144; bottoms and skirts from $56 to $80.

 

Brand: Indego Africa

Creative director: Deirdre King

Background: The 11-year-old brand operates as a not-for-profit and its pieces are handmade by artisans and refugees in Rwanda and Ghana. One hundred percent of the profits go back to fund education programs for women and youth in the African countries. It was the brand’s first time at Cabana, showcasing a newly expanded bag assortment.

Inspiration: Plateau baskets made from strands of the inside fibers of agave plants, sweetgrass coiled to make bucket bags with natural indigo dyes, and raffia bags made from palm leaves.

Prices: Wholesale prices range from $34 to $110.

 

CAPSULE:

 

Brand: The Great Eros

Designer: Christina Viviani

Background: Just under two years old, this New York-based intimates brand began with a store in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Viviani started the brand with Emilio Ramirez, and calls what they do “wearable sensuality.” They create a large part of their range in Italy, where they work with small family-owned businesses and aim to maintain a small carbon footprint. The lingerie brand uses custom-made fabrics across all categories and also produces leisure wear and socks. This was their first time at Capsule.

Inspiration: The “Canova group” of bralettes, underwire bras and bottoms was inspired by the Canova Museum in Possagno, Italy, and is their number-one-selling group. It is made up of seamless bottoms and bras done with heat molding.

Prices: Underwear from $16 to $25 wholesale; bralettes and bras from $37 to $46.

 

Brand: Father’s Daughter

Designer: Su Kim

Background: Kim and her father Jim Man, a patternmaker, started their brand two and a half years ago after each working several years at other denim firms. They began with core denim, T-shirts and chambray pieces using local mills for their tees and sourcing their denim from Japan. This was their first time at Capsule.

Inspiration: Streetwear culture and Venice, Calif., were influences for the new collection. Kim introduced neon yellow in tops and pleated khaki trousers for the spring assortment.

Prices: T-shirts from $26 to $37 wholesale; bottoms, $72 to $107; dresses and overalls, $133 to $155.

 

WOMAN:

 

Brand: Justine Clenquet x Renoner

Designers: Justine Clenquet and Reno Liu

Background: Justine Clenquet started her jewelry line in 2010. She’s known for designing accessories that merge glamour with punk details. The collection is sold at retailers including Opening Ceremony, Shopbop and Nordstrom.

Inspiration: She brought her glam punk design ethos to her capsule collection with Renoner, a sunglasses line based in Shanghai that’s designed by Reno Liu. Liu’s signature is attaching earrings to her sunglasses and for the capsule Clenquet added her hoop and chain earrings to the style, which comes with either a black, purple or red lens.

Wholesale price: $100.

 

Brand: PH5

Designer: Mijia Zhang

Background: Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang were roommates before becoming business partners in PH5 in 2014. Zhang, who studied at Parsons and held stints at Nike and Christopher Kane, designs the collection while Zhang, whose mother owns a knitting factory in China, runs the business. Named after the chemistry scale — Lin envisions the brand as a fashion laboratory — the collection is sold at retailers including Shopbop, Moda Operandi and Need Supply.

Inspiration: Miami Art Deco was the driving theme behind the spring collection that featured pastel versions of its signature styles, including wide-leg jumpsuits, skirts and dresses with intricate hems and matching knit sets. New to the collection was tailored pieces, including a blazer with magnetic buttons and trousers with a slight flare.

Wholesale prices: $80 to $200.

 

 

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