Tod's Men's Spring 2020

MILAN After five years, Andrea Incontri is exiting Tod’s and leaving his role as men’s wear creative director of the brand. His last day is June 30.

Incontri said Tod’s had been “a school and an important experience in [his] development,” thanking chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle and his brother Andrea for their “support and enthusiasm.” In turn, Diego Della Valle emphasized Incontri’s contribution over the years.

An architecture graduate from the Politecnico di Milano, Incontri, who launched his namesake brand in 2009, won the men’s edition of the “Who Is on Next?” talent search in 2010 in the accessories category. The designer quickly extended his label to men’s wear, delivering collections with a strong attention to detail and use of high-end materials.
 In 2012, Incontri added a women’s collection, which made its debut as part of the Italian Fashion Chamber’s official fashion week schedule in February 2013.

Tod’s last Sunday presented its men’s spring 2020 collection at Milan’s Villa Necchi Campiglio developed around the theme of driving, which is also part of the brand’s heritage. Sources speculated then an exit could be imminent because Incontri was not as actively present during the presentation as he had been in the past, walking the press and retailers through the looks, which ranged from super-light, second-skin Ride Jackets in napa leather with slant pockets and double stripes in tone-on-tone or bold color-blocked effects to a sneaker capsule with a new braided knitted technical fabric.

A successor has not been appointed. Della Valle has been revamping the company’s business model and launching a project called Tod’s Factory, in a reference to Andy Warhol. In a system mirroring the streetwear drop, it released a mix of capsules and limited editions in collaboration with designers and friends of the house, including Alessandro Dell’Acqua. This summer, Tod’s Factory will unveil an accessories capsule designed by Alber Elbaz. In October, Tod’s named Michele Lupi, a former editor in chief of GQ, Rolling Stone and most recently Icon, as men’s collections visionary and part of a new team dedicated to the development of the Tod’s Factory project.