In the wake of store and factory closures, delivery schedules of fashion collections are being disrupted. Here’s how a selection of brands see things shaking out:
Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president, Chanel SAS:
“In the short term, we have reviewed our plans for merchandising and delivering the collections in our network of Chanel boutiques: concretely, the spring-summer 2020 ready-to-wear collections will remain in stores for longer, and the so-called Métiers d’Art collection, normally delivered in May, will arrive instead in early July.”
The fall-winter 2020/21 pre-collection presented to Chanel store buyers in early February will be delivered from mid-July until September, he added.
“Producing a collection takes months and, until we do know when we will be able to go back not just to our usual calendar of activities, but to our lives, it’s really impossible to give a precise answer. In any case, I do not see anything wrong in having the fall collection hitting the stores in…fall!
“We all had to postpone the presentation of our cruise collections, but when faced with the security of us all it is a small price to pay. It is too early to say what will be the long-term consequences.”
Massimo Giorgetti, founder and creative director, MSGM:
“Our manufacturing companies and our suppliers are still closed, which means that the deliveries of the pre-fall and fall collections will be delayed. Instead of delivering them to stores between June and early September, products will probably hit shops in late September and October, in the most appropriate period, actually. I really don’t think that these delays will be a problem. I think that we are going back to an in-season delivery cadence and we will also have to revise the timing of sales.”
Guram Gvasalia, cofounder, Vetements:
“It is shocking and disgusting to read articles online suggesting brands cancel their current production and full collections that were just shown, and work on the next show for September. Especially concerning is to find such proposals coming from publications which are non-stop promoting sustainability. Every brand that takes sustainability seriously should not produce another new collection before they deliver the one they just showed. Otherwise it’s a waste of time, money, resources and talent. This goes against all the principles of sustainability and environmental consciousness that the industry has been trying to preach.”
Luca Donnini, chief executive officer, Temperley London:
“Some stores have not yet received their last summer drops, and this product can be sold without [sales] promotions later — if business returns within the summer season. However, the full supply chain system has been disrupted by the lockdown in China, Italy, Spain and other key high-end production sourcing countries, so it will be difficult for the pre-fall season to be delivered and winter will surely report serious delays. The best solution would be for both brands and retailers to agree to make the last drops of summer the new pre-fall deliveries.”
Osman Yousefzada, founder, Osman:
“I think most brands, including us, will be missing the June presentations and showing a new collection in September, if all is well, and I am thinking of streamlining our offering into two, very focused collections.”
Katherine Holmgren, cofounder, Galvan London:
“We’ve taken our pre-fall collection, which we’ve already paid for and produced the fabrics for, but garments haven’t been sewn yet, and divided it into two parts. We’re delivering part of it at the end of May/June. The other part, which is a bit more wintry in feel anyway, we’ll deliver in October. What we’re also going to do with our autumn-winter collection, which is normally delivered in July/August, we’re still going to deliver. We’ll push it a little later, so maybe more toward August, but we’re still delivering that, we just scaled it down quite a bit.
“We are going to skip the resort collection, which is normally a very big collection for us and for the industry. Because we’re delivering part of pre-fall in October, the general mood from our wholesalers has been very much that they will already have a lot of stock, and that they’re probably not going to have dollars to spend on more stock. We do a resort wear line twice a year called Escape, and we’re still going to show that in June, and deliver it in November.
“Overall, the idea is to take pre-fall and autumn/winter and push everything back a little bit, but then also spread it out, so that it’s starting in May/June and running all the way through to October.”
Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding of the London-based label Palmer Harding:
“This current crisis will be a major hit in revenue as we are facing major returns from stores for summer 2020 and potential cancellations for autumn-winter alongside the fact that June resort market will be missed. However, in the most positive light it is an opportunity to support stores by moving autumn-winter order deliveries into October, deliveries which align the garments with weather-appropriate calendars. We have actually started discussions with many of our major retailers proposing just this exact situation.”
Evangelo Bousis, cofounder, Dundas:
“Rethinking the ways collections are presented and sold during fashion weeks, as well as an overall downsizing of collections and sku’s, could be the right approach for many brands. Brands that offer a more seasonless offering are better placed to be flexible with delivering product that still makes sense to the consumer. Whilst it impacts future season revenues, it minimizes inventory risk and markdowns with the opportunity to carry over product into the next season.”