NEW YORK – A December fashion week appears to be taking shape here, but it’s a combination of fall and pre-fall showings.
Alexander Wang’s move — which was expected to create two new fashion weeks in December and June — hasn’t really materialized the way it was envisioned, although Wang and Narciso Rodriguez continue to be on board. Wang will show his fall collection on Saturday, Dec. 1, at 7 p.m., and Rodriguez will show Monday, Dec. 3, at 10 a.m. Both designers declined to disclose the locations of their shows.
Other designers who appear on the Fashion Calendar in December slots are Victor Glemaud, Badgley Mischka, Cushnie and Carolina Herrera, who will all show pre-fall collections.
Badgley Mischka, for example, will show pre-fall 2019 in the showroom the week of Dec. 3, and will show fall 2019 on the runway during February’s New York Fashion Week, while Cushnie will hold pre-fall appointments on Dec. 4 and will continue to show fall in February during NYFW. Beyond Glemaud’s pre-fall presentation on Dec. 2 from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., the designer hasn’t finalized plans for February yet. Herrera will have a press day Dec. 5 for pre-collection, and will present its fall runway show in February.
Meantime, early December will have some some added star power. Chanel will be unveiling its Metiers d’Art collection in New York at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on Dec. 4, which is a special collection that is different than Chanel’s pre-fall line. Donatella Versace will hold her Versace pre-fall collection in New York on Dec. 2 at 7 p.m.
Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, said, “To us, December is less about what collection they’re showing but more about putting an alternative date on the calendar. We began to formally group pre-collections, which we know extends beyond a week and can be too long a period. It’s a combination of the two. That week we have the Chanel show and the Versace show, which are clearly around that time.”
Asked if the movement for June and December fashion weeks materialized, he said, “A few designers are doing it. The intention is to create a more formal time period, in December and June. It creates a tighter period in trying to define pre-collections and gives an opportunity for designers who wanted to go earlier.” He said it’s still possible some designers may join next time, while others could drop out.
“We created it based on what was industry conversation, and interest and we’ve done that. We’ll always have December and June organized as more formal dates. They’re not fashion weeks, and you don’t have to put it into the context of what’s happening in September and February. They’re dates by which something is happening. We’ll always have that regardless of designers showing main collections as a way to galvanize a tighter schedule of pre-collection dates and accommodating those who would want to do their main collections earlier,” said Kolb.
He explained that when the idea first came to be, there were at least a dozen brands that told him it was something they believed in. “Why they have chosen not to move forward with it, I can’t tell you,” he said.
“I think brands should do what is best for them. It’s really up to each brand,” Kolb said. “Maybe long-term gain, short-term loss. By moving to the pre-collections dates, the potential for it to be more significant in terms of brand involvement, would take some time and being a pioneer in that idea, you’re not going to get the same size audience if you’re staying in traditional dates. It’s there, and whoever chooses to show there, they’ll take advantage of it, and those who don’t will stay where they are.”
As reported, last January, Wang disclosed he planned to move his New York shows to June from September and adopted a new biannual schedule with collections presented in June and December. In tandem with Wang’s move, the CFDA put into motion plans for an official summer/winter fashion season, which would take place in June and December.
The first June fashion week had slim participation. Those who showed between June 3 and June 7 were Wang, Rodriguez, Rosie Assoulin and Lorod, who all showed spring collections. Saint Laurent had planned a fashion show in New York on June 6, but it wasn’t part of the CFDA’s calendar.
Other names who were on the schedule for June included Diane von Furstenberg, Glemaud, Badgley Mischka, Lela Rose, Carolina Herrera, Cushnie et Ochs, Anna Sui, Sachin & Babi, Dennis Basso, Johanna Ortiz, Rag & Bone, Tome and Maggie Marilyn, who showed their resort collections per the traditional resort calendar.
Although Assoulin was initially on board and showed her spring line in June, a spokeswoman for the designer said she decided not to participate in the December fashion week with her fall line.