Delpozo Paris RTW Fall 2019

LONDON — After the Spanish label Delpozo returned to the market six years ago under Josep Font it built a name for its whimsical, colorful collections and otherworldly gowns, crafted using couture techniques.

With a new creative director at the helm, Lutz Huelle, who replaced Font last year, the brand is ready to mark its next chapter with an added dose of reality.

A new perfume, clothes that are more relevant to the demands of everyday life, more affordable price points — and the color black — will all be part of the journey under Huelle.

The idea isn’t to become “a brand for everybody,” said president Pedro Trolez, but to refine the label’s positioning. As well as perfume, new categories such as sunglasses are also in the works, with fashion remaining at the heart of the brand and informing the development of all other categories.

That’s also why Trolez has been looking for outside investment from a partner with a strong fashion background: “Someone who is an expert in fashion and devoted to the category would be the right partner for us, because at the end of the day we are perfumers,” he said in an interview.

The house is owned by Grupo Perfumes y Diseño, which has held the house’s perfume license since 1992 and acquired the label in full in 2011.

“If it’s the right partner, I wouldn’t care if it’s a majority or minority stake, that will be the last thing that we discuss. We are looking for a very active partner, it can’t be a silent partner,” added Trolez.

For Trolez, branding and the fashion portion of the brand is where most development will take place and it will inform all other categories including sunglasses, perfume and the label’s existing shoes and bags business.

The brand is also leveraging its parent company’s perfumery expertise and spearheading the launch of a scent under the creative direction of Huelle.

“Lutz Huelle is overseeing everything, so everything we produce is under the same concept and ideas. We want to consolidate the brand and that’s the best way of doing it. If the same person is controlling the whole business, the brand will be coherent at the end of the day, and our aim is to build a strong brand and for the creative director to be in a position to control a 360-degree business,” said Trolez.

As part of this commitment to consistent brand messaging, the brand is also skipping Resort in order to present its first ready-to-wear collection overseen by Huelle at London Fashion Week in September.

The label previously used to show at New York Fashion Week, before switching to London in early 2018.

“We want to be exclusive and special and I think that London catwalk is more specific and in line with our philosophy,” said Trolez, adding that the shift in direction hasn’t stalled the label’s growth and that the company foresees a double-digit sales increase in 2020.

The September show will introduce the brand’s new direction, which will include several novelties for the label ranging from new necklines to more daywear-appropriate clothes like suiting and the color black.

“This would have been impossible a year ago, but now we are introducing the color black for the first time in the life of the brand. We’ll also be starting [a new focus on tailoring] with a very special suit,” said Trolez.

“You should be able to go to work in the morning and then to a cocktail party without changing, there’s no time right now for going back home to change. Brands are much more adapted to day-to-day life and that’s why we want to offer something new to our clients. It’s important that she feels very comfortable with everything she puts on by Delpozo.”

While the brand will continue to play in the luxury arena, Trolez is also working to adjust price points to become “much more affordable than in the past.”

“We are trying to adapt to the market which is asking for lower price points. We’ve been observing what’s going on very closely and when the market speaks, you have to listen,” he added.

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