Paris is set to get soft this spring, as designers turn to comfortable silhouettes and warm hues. Here, designers share their inspirations with WWD.
This story first appeared in the June 25, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“High-tech meets high-chic in aerodynamic silhouette cuts for the world’s most efficient traveler: the bike messenger.”
— Paul Helbers, men’s studio director under the artistic direction of Marc Jacob
“My collection is articulated around a ‘ton-sur-ton’ game of off-whites and sand beiges to powdery colors [such as] military green, faded grays and washed-away blues. All fabrics are natural — mainly linen and cotton associated with more high-tech materials. The whole story is enriched by camouflage prints and art craft embroideries. ‘Default’ pieces, ‘burnt’ details and raw-edge cut fabrics are some of the strongest statement pieces of the collection. A métissage of inspirations and patchwork of fabrics — loose fit and slim cuts, casual and tailored pieces together — strengthen the allure of the first collection.”
— Antonio Marras
“My collection is the reflection of how I love to dress myself. I really wanted a very comfortable and fun attitude, fresh with more dressed-up allusions, such as mixing cotton fabrics with crystal buttons.”
“The idea behind my spring-summer ’10 collection came from my ongoing connection with music and musicians, thinking about them traveling around the world buying clothes as they went. For instance, classic suits in London, Hawaiian shirts in the U.S., brightly colored stripes in Italy, often mixed with slim-fit trousers in a variety of colors worn with English shoes with a shorter shape than the ones we have been using, which had more of a European look. Colors for suits go from black to navy and lots of gray. Some of the suitings are very rock ’n’ roll with a shiny finish or strong stripes — all in a very Paul Smith collection — mix it with what you want.”
“For spring-summer 2010, I’ve been following on the Alfred Dunhill journey, exploring warmer climates for a new season. Expedition is more about a feeling than a place. Elephant gray is a key color in this collection.”
— Kim Jones
“Le Petit Prince.”
“I’ve been looking at a self-portrait of Peter Berlin, Seventies porn star, as a starting point. Lotsa leather and denim.”
“Can there be life without donkeys? An old story tells that a farmer of mean repute once tried to train his donkey to live without eating. The early stages of the project were quite successful and the animal was able to continue all his daily tasks without reward. The unfortunate part of the story is that, just as the farmer was about to prove his point, the donkey went and ruined the experiment. With the usual lack of concern and interest most underlings give to the good ideas of their betters, the donkey laid down and died.”
“The key look for the Hugo 2010 summer collection is masculine, tailored and fresh. The colors I used are the codes of the brand Hugo: red and black combined with classic nautical colors such as navy, white and light blue. I was inspired by the seascapes of German artist and photographer Wolfgang Uhlig. What fascinated me about Uhilg’s work is the way he combines nature with architecture. The collection is my interpretation of that idea.”
— Bruno Pieters, art director, Hugo