MILAN — There’s nothing like a touch of the Seventies and the Age of Aquarius to let the sunshine into retailers’ moods.
The Seventies vibe all over the Milan runways this season was a hit with retailers, who praised the easy yet feminine designs — pants were a rarity — and a heightened play on Italian craftsmanship. Colorful maxidresses, hip-hugging flared trousers, patchworks, floral and geometric prints, transparency, organza, lots of suede — often embellished — and fringe trims were some of the main trends this season.
The tinge of retro and the continued development of up-and-coming designers left retailers more upbeat about the Milan collections than they have been in several seasons. A shorter show calendar also helped improve their attitude toward Italy’s fashion capital.
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“I strongly feel that Milan is on the up-and-up,” said Averyl Oates, fashion director at Galeries Lafayette. “Luxury houses and newer designers delivered positive, fresh collections. Despite the difficult economy, we are projecting an increase in spend, also to allow for an injection of new brands in our Italian portfolio.”
Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, agreed. “I am very enthusiastic about Milan this season. I thought that designers gave us all of the trends that we were seeing emerging from New York to London. I thought the shows looked fantastic. There is a lot of great product here,” he said. “The nice thing is that there was a consistency around the entire week — this message of the romantic, free-spirited Bohemian girl. Milan is having a real moment again. It’s nice to see it.”
Downing cited Marco de Vincenzo, his “top collection,” and Bottega Veneta, Etro and Emilio Pucci among his favorites.
See the Spring 2015 Milan Collections Here >>
Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, said that, “with a focus on luxe materials, artisanal embellishments and great pride in craftsmanship, Milan did not disappoint. There was opulence, sex appeal and just a touch of flash.” Favorite collections included Prada, Fendi, Etro, Marco de Vincenzo, Giamba, Roberto Cavalli and Pucci.
“Fabric craftsmanship and innovation continues to be of utmost importance in Milan. I loved the rich brocades, jacquards, lace and other decorative fabrics that we’ve seen throughout the week,” added Sherin. “It was interesting to see the distressing of the brocades at Prada. Denim was used for a sportier look and in a democratic way to prevent the collections from looking too precious.”
Brooke Jaffe, operating vice president of fashion direction for women’s ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s, praised the “many strong collections,” and said that “the celebration of artisan craft seen in exquisite embellishment, beadwork and embroidery on both clothing and accessories was extraordinary.” She also highlighted the “diversification in hemlines on dresses and skirts. Longer lengths and diaphanous silhouettes taking center stage in Milan felt fresh.”
Jaffe’s favorite collections included Pucci, Gucci, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and MSGM.
Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at Le Bon Marché in Paris, singled out Marco de Vincenzo’s show.
“It was a very special moment, infinitely creative with ultrafeminine silhouettes, using new materials and special techniques to bring lightness and a uniqueness to his collection. Looks were sophisticated, but with an easy attitude at the same time — we absolutely loved it,” she said.
Cuvillier said Milan confirmed the trend for blossom patterns seen in New York and London, with strong floral statements from Marni and Fendi. Emerging talents included Stella Jean. “She is so talented with fresh silhouettes and an incredible mix of colors and prints, a strong DNA, which really brings newness on the catwalk,” she said.
Tiziana Cardini, fashion director at Italy’s La Rinascente, underscored the city’s creativity as well as its relevance as a business hub. “Milan has a solid standing within the international fashion system,” said Cardini, lamenting how it has become too “easy to blame it on Milan. Each fashion city has its own specifics but Milan is creative, too.”
Cardini was impressed by the range of skirts in different lengths and the “sportswear influence with more sophisticated touches.” Favorite collections included Prada, Marni, Pucci, Versace, Marco de Vincenzo, Angelos Bratis, Arthur Arbesser and Rodolfo Paglialunga’s debut at Jil Sander.
Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction at Toronto-based Holt Renfrew, was equally positive about Italian fashion. “We are celebrating an Italian immersion event in October and are continuing to build strong relationships with our Italian partners in all categories as the Italian luxury design houses remain the foundation to our successful growth and luxury positioning in Canada.”
She said that, in general, the store’s “designer business is extremely strong and our budgets have been set to fuel this positive growth.” Top of her list is luxurious sportswear including knitwear, tailored and sleeveless jackets, tunics and dresses, and a “newness in skirts and pant silhouettes — especially the new culottes.”
She also noted that “clogs, lower heels, sneakers and comfort sandals would help fuel a strong leather-goods business, along with cross-body bags, clutches and constructed top-handle bags in exotic skins.” Favorite collections include Prada, Brunello Cucinelli, Marni, Fendi, Gucci, Stella Jean, Marco de Vincenzo, Fausto Puglisi — and new discovery Callens.
Oates lauded the touch of humor in rtw and accessories collections — particularly at Moschino and Au Jour Le Jour, “which balances the seriousness of many collections.” Galeries Lafayette favorites also included Stella Jean, No. 21, Giamba, and Marco de Vincenzo.
“We believe that Milan will get stronger again,” echoed Sebla Devidas, women’s buying director at Beymen in Turkey. “There were no drastic changes in Milan Fashion Week, however, it was promising to see a fresh air and unexpected novelties from some collections in terms of fabrics and shapes.”
Beymen is to keep budgets flat for Italian collections, reflecting “strong business” with major brands, and few additions this season, Devidas noted. Its favorites were Pucci, followed by Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana and Etro. “We are also happy with the new start of Jil Sander. On the new front, Angelos Bratis, Stella Jean and MSGM,” said Devidas.
MSGM was also a highlight for Elle Strauss, fashion director at Shopbop.com. “It’s always such a refreshingly creative show and this season didn’t disappoint, with pretty bird prints and vibrant colors,” said Strauss, also praising Moschino’s Barbie-themed show.
Andrea Panconesi, owner of Florence’s Luisa Via Roma, was equally impressed by Moschino — a great marketing operation, he said — and Antonio Marras, as well as Dolce & Gabbana’s collection, which he described as “the most interesting and impactful.” His plan for the season is “to buy 15 percent more than last season.” Panconesi said that Made in Italy women’s footwear is the category that is growing the most at the store.
Retailers were generally pleased with the more-compact show schedule.
Leila Yavari, fashion director at Stylebop.com, said she was “very happy with the condensed schedule and would like to see the same in Paris.” Yavari gave a thumbs-up to the designers’ interpretation of the Seventies “for a modern consumer whose key interest is lifestyle rather than consumption.” In addition to Pucci, Etro and Roberto Cavalli, she was impressed by Marco de Vincenzo. He “has proven he’s the one to watch.”
Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion director at Barneys New York, said the new condensed schedule was appreciated and that “it could be further condensed.” Ogura said she had been “impressed by the strength of the offering and particularly engaged by the beautiful shows from Prada and Bottega Veneta, both of which are major highlights from the spring season so far.”
“Through the elegantly embroidered dresses at Bottega Veneta we saw denim worked into the season’s purposefully unfinished refinement. Designers are changing the way we look at fabrics and materials they might traditionally use through the use of raw and frayed edging, fringe and slashed cutouts. The unfinished detailing, particularly at Prada, gives a refreshed perspective on the beauty of the fabric and an appreciation of the craftsmanship built into the garments. These details address a sophisticated ease which make the clothes less precious and everyday-wearable,” said Ogura.
Fendi’s micro peekaboos, Gianvito Rossi’s braided lace-up sandals, Marni’s fringed hobos and Valextra’s Onda wave clutch are must-have accessories for the season.
Justin O’Shea, buying director for My Theresa, was also pleased with the condensed schedule. Gucci, which “really found its identity this season,” Etro, Pucci, Bottega Veneta, Sergio Rossi, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada were among his favorites. The latter, he said, “again proved its place at the top of the Italian food chain. So perfectly cool.”
“We came, we saw, we will buy,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. “Pucci, Gucci and Etro exceeded themselves,” and she also liked Roberto Cavalli. “It’s significant to note that most collections here, in tandem with other cities, remain grounded by the all important flat, whether sandals or athletic shoes. Top of mind collections for us were Marco de Vincenzo — most promising and extraordinary, Bottega Veneta covered a-day-in the-life dressing in a very special interpretation, Prada marches to her own original and fascinating drum, Fendi didn’t disappoint and Missoni hit a new high-knitwear development in Italy [that] remains unparalleled. Marni’s anniversary treated us all to the best feel-good moment with its generous flower shop pop-up.”