The “American Collections Calendar,” formerly known as the Official New York Fashion Week Schedule, has finally been released.
As reported, Tom Ford, chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, renamed the show schedule “American Collections Calendar” last week to reflect that a growing number of American designers are showing later in the season and sometimes outside of New York, whether that be in Europe, Asia or other key markets. The CFDA has now included all American designers who are showing within the calendar and on Runway360, regardless of location or collection release date.
Due to the pandemic the New York fashion shows will be primarily a virtual event on Runway360, CFDA’s digital platform, with a sprinkling of live events. For the most part, each of the designers has an exclusive half-hour slot on the schedule, which can be viewed anytime afterward. The presentations can be viewed at Runway360.cfda.com.
While the official NYFW schedule goes from Feb. 14 through Feb. 17, there are numerous designers who are showing their lines before and after the event. For instance, Zero + Maria Cornejo will present today, Kozaburo will present Feb. 10, Prabal Gurung will show Feb. 11, Ulla Johnson will show Feb. 12 and R13 will present Feb. 13.
After NYFW, Christian Cowan and Gabriela Hearst will present Feb. 18, Carolina Herrera will show Feb. 22 (subject to change), Coach 1941 will show Feb. 23, Christian Siriano on Feb. 25, Oscar de la Renta is on the schedule for March 2, Thom Browne is March 5, Altuzarra is March 6, Laquan Smith is March 9 and Jonathan Cohen is April 15. In many cases, these American designers will show during periods that will overlap with the fashion weeks in London, Milan and Paris, presenting a potential global collision of timeslots.
As for the official NYFW schedule, Jason Wu will kick it off Feb. 14 at 5 p.m., followed by Imitation of Christ at 6 p.m.
Those showing on Feb. 15 include Adam Lippes and Veronica Beard (Lippes is doing private appointments all day and Beard is releasing a look book), Victor Li (who kicks it off at 9 a.m.), followed by Private Policy, Snow Xue Gao, Chocheng, Victor Glemaud, Adeam, Maisie Wilen, PH5, Kuon, Aknvas, Duncan, Geoffrey Mac and Libertine, who closes the day at 7 p.m..
Also on Feb. 15 is New York Men’s Day, which was created by Agency PR and, as reported, will include men’s and gender-fluid designers such as A.Potts, Carter Young, Chelsea Grays, Federico Cina, Ka Wa Key, Koh T, Onyrmrk, Stan, Teddy Vonranson, The Stolen Garment and Timo Weiland, showing from noon to 2 p.m.
The lineup for Feb. 16 includes Staud, Anna Sui, Badgley Mischka, Keenkee, Tanya Taylor, Kimberly Goldson, Rebecca Minkoff, Dur Doux, Sandy Liang, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Dennis Basso, No Sesso, Dirty Pineapple, Anne Klein, Naeem Khan, Kevan Hall Designs, Frederick Anderson, VeniceW and ending with Claudia Li at 7:30 p.m.
The Feb. 17 schedule spotlights such designers as Rosetta Getty, C+Plus Series, Bevza, LBV, Collina Strada, Bibhu Mohapatra, NIHL, Jonathan Simkhai, Mr. Saturday, Cinq a Sept, Sukeina, Social Work Studio, Studio One Eighty Nine, Theophilio, Rentrayage, Nicole Miller, Kim Shui, LRS, and Willy Chavarria, with Tom Ford capping off NYFW at 7 p.m.
Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, said Wednesday, “The New American Collections Calendar was positively embraced by the industry and the feedback we received commended the CFDA for the fresh approach to scheduling. At the same time, as we knew would be the case, there is a strong group of designers from emerging to established showing officially during New York Fashion Week, which provides the foundation of the American Collections Calendar, and most of them will show through our Runway360 platform. Given the continued challenges due to the pandemic, this will again be a digital season with the majority of the brands releasing their new collections through creative videos and look books.”
Discussing the show calendar and Runway360 last week, Kolb said, “You’ll see some brands returning that haven’t been on a calendar for a while, you’ll see some new brands, you’ll see the continued engagement of more diversity. What’s so powerful about Runway360 is open access. We’re supporting emerging talent, it has global reach, and it’s flexible. You can be a brand that has a budget and makes a movie, or you can get a studio and livestream with no audience, and you can be a brand that asks your friend to come over to your apartment, put them in your clothes and ask a neighbor to shoot a look book.” He said brands can spend as little or as much as they want.
As reported, IMG, which owns NYFW: The Shows, will be using Spring Studios as the central location of activity. IMG plans to support designers with opportunities such as live-to-tape runway shows, content and look book shoots, panel discussions, talks, social activations and e-commerce, viewable at NYFW.com.
Among those having live events, Wu’s presentation on Feb. 15 will be a socially distanced show with a limited, by-appointment audience being produced by IMG Focus, IMG’s in-house production arm. Wu’s show will be livestreamed on NYFW.com. Minkoff will be showing her collection at the Spring Studios Terrace on Feb. 16 from 12:30 to 2:30 p.m. The invitation states, “Please note we are working with the New York State Governor’s Office and IMG to ensure CDC compliance and proper safety measure are being taken this season. We will require face masks and temperature checks upon entry to the event, and will also limit the capacity to 16 guests within the space at one time to ensure social distancing.”
Several major New York designers such as Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Brandon Maxwell, Tommy Hilfiger, Christopher John Rogers, Pyer Moss and Tory Burch aren’t included on the “American Collections Calendar” calendar.
Calls to their representatives revealed some are planning to present their collections at another time, but haven’t disclosed when yet.
A spokeswoman for Tory Burch said, “We are working through our concept and while we do not have a set date for our fall 2021 launch yet we will likely not be ready to post for NYFW February. We are looking at dates after the Paris shows for the week of March 15.”
A Marc Jacobs spokesman said, “Marc is working on his next collection; however, there are no presentation details to share at this time.”
A Ralph Lauren spokesman said the company hasn’t revealed plans yet, and Kors and Brandon Maxwell spokespeople said they would release their plans at a later date. A spokeswoman for Rodarte said due to the current pandemic situation in Los Angeles, the brand will be selling the fall 2021 collection privately during February New York City market. In early March, it will launch the visual campaign and send images of the collection to press.
Hilfiger in January launched its fall 2021 season to wholesale and trade accounts. Its remote selling tools are available in more than nine countries in Europe, three in Asia and two in the Americas, according to Avery Baker, president and chief brand officer.
A new development for CFDA’s Runway360 is that Informa Markets Fashion, which hosts such fashion trade shows as Magic, Coterie, Project and MICAM Americas, has joined forces with CFDA, New York Men’s Day (NYMD) and e-commerce wholesale platform partner NuOrder for the launch of CFDA and NYMD at Coterie and Project Digital. The program, featuring a collection of designers showing on the Runway360 digital platform will give designers the opportunity to showcase their latest collections to Informa’s audience of buyers.
Project Digital, a classic and contemporary men’s wear digital marketplace, launched Jan. 15, while Coterie Digital, an elevated contemporary women’s wear digital marketplace, will launch Feb. 16, which is also introducing its second edition. The 20 designers participating in the program will showcase their fall 2021 collections as well as products available for immediate delivery through interactive and stoppable digital showrooms.
Kelly Helfman, commercial president of Informa Markets Fashion, said she was happy to partner with the CFDA and NYMD to shine a spotlight on this group of emerging and talented designers. “The fashion-forward consumer is anxiously craving what’s new and next at a rapidly increasing speed. We are dedicated to helping our retailers and buyers discover emerging trends and fresh brands, and most importantly, efficiently facilitating the connection needed to bring the unique products to brick-and-mortar or digital shelves quickly.”
“We are so excited and honored to facilitate the CFDA and NYMD brands exposure to retailers on the Project and Coterie digital marketplaces. It is our mission here at NuOrder to help brands and retailers come together seamlessly to be inspired and connect. This program will give retailers, worldwide, the ability to shop brands and place orders,” said Tommy Fazio, fashion director for NuOrder.
The brands on Project Digital are Carter Young, The Stolen Garment, NIHL, Chelsea Grays, Timo Weiland, Private Policy, Federico Cina, Studio 189, Victor Li, Ka Wa Key, Teddy Vonranson, Willy Chavarria and Koh T.
On Coterie Digital will be Aknvas, Jonathan Simkhai Standard, Tanya Taylor, Claudia Li, PH5, Frederick Anderson and Sukeina.
Project Digital, originally slated to run Jan. 19 to Feb. 15, will be extended to Feb. 22. Coterie will launch Feb. 16 and run through March 16. MICAM Americas, Informa Markets Fashion’s footwear event, launched on Jan. 19, alongside Project and will run until March 16, and Magic Digital launched Feb. 1 and will run through March 1.
VIEW THE AMERICAN COLLECTIONS CALENDAR HERE (SUBJECT TO CHANGE)
FOR MORE STORIES: