Gosha Rubchinskiy

MILAN — Gosha Rubchinskiy is the next designer to present a collection under the Diesel Red Tag moniker with his project GR-Uniforma. The collection will be unveiled in Venice for the opening of the Art Biennale on May 9 and be presented with an art performance created by the Moscow-based Rubchinskiy.

Last week, WWD reported that the designer is readying a project called GR-Uniforma, due to launch on March 16 in all Dover Street Market stores and the retailer’s web site, according to a manifesto posted on the brand’s site.

“Denim is an important part of the wardrobe of youth today,” said Rubchinskiy. “I remember myself as a teenager in the late Nineties and it was the same. It was the time of Diesel’s first bright and strong advertising campaigns, and the brand’s first shop in Moscow. It was a dream for me to own Diesel denims. Now dreams have come true — I’m more than happy to collaborate with such a great brand!”

The Red Tag x GR-Uniforma collection will be sold exclusively in Dover Street Market stores and through a network of retailers selected by Tomorrow Ltd., the multiservice business accelerator for fashion brands that offers consultancy, sales and distribution, investment, product development and operations.

The GR-Uniforma project is a fresh start for Rubchinskiy, who in December issued a statement defending “the risky practice of casting via Instagram” after a 16-year-old boy seeking to model in his look book accused him of inappropriate behavior.

Rubchinskiy, who is also a photographer and filmmaker, introduced his signature label in 2008 and presented his first three shows in Moscow. He catapulted on to the men’s wear scene with his edgy shows in Paris, where he showed for four seasons, from June 2014 to January 2016, as a protégé of Comme des Garçons. His last three collections were presented in his homeland. He shuttered his namesake brand in June 2018.

The designer has collaborated with brands including Dr. Martens, Levi’s and Burberry. His debut scent, Perfect Summer Weekend, produced in collaboration with Comme des Garçons, launched in 2016.

Diesel Red Tag was launched as a capsule project in March last year in Paris, designed by Shayne Oliver, cofounder of Hood by Air. For the second Diesel Red Tag collection, Renzo Rosso, founder of the OTB group that controls Diesel, tapped Y/Project creative director Glenn Martens. The Paris-based, Belgian designer approached Diesel’s heritage with his signature deconstructive attitude and the collection was presented in Milan last June during Men’s Fashion Week.

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