Daniel Roseberry will be in charge of all collections, projects and image at the Place Vendôme house, where he succeeds Bertrand Guyon, who held the post of design director. Roseberry joined Thom Browne in 2008 and was most recently design director of men’s and women’s collections at the brand, best known for its men’s suits with short pants.
The 33-year-old Texan is an unexpected choice to head the house founded by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, and revived by Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle in 2013, confirming an industry trend for appointing second-in-command designers to top posts.
Roseberry will bring to the task a skill for precision cutting and a taste for the surreal, central to Schiaparelli’s creative aesthetic. He hinted that he would also contribute a healthy dose of big-picture philosophy to the job.
“Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world?” he said in a statement.
Roseberry added that one of Schiaparelli’s greatest legacies was her understanding that people need fantasy in complicated times. “I want to offer my own answers to these questions, and offer a fantasy — a dream — that feels relevant, and necessary, for today,” he said.
Della Valle said he was “delighted” to welcome the designer. “His modern and innovative creative vision and his multiple talents will allow the house to deploy all of its activities in respect of this unique heritage that has made Schiaparelli a revolutionary brand,” the Tod’s owner said.
Roseberry becomes the third designer to take on Schiaparelli since Della Valle relaunched the brand by hiring Paris fashion personality Farida Khelfa as the spokeswoman for the house and tapping Christian Lacroix for a one-off collection that was never sold.
Marco Zanini joined in 2013 but left a year later, while Guyon was at the helm for four years. His designs, based on Schiaparelli obsessions including astrological signs and beetles, won favor with celebrities including Tilda Swinton, Lady Gaga and Céline Dion.
Roseberry joins at a time of ramped-up activity at the brand, which last year relaunched its high-end ready-to-wear line, introduced its first handbag and opened a pop-up at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, marking the company’s first presence outside its salons in Paris.
Delphine Bellini, chief executive officer of Schiaparelli, plans to increase the visibility of the rtw line, released in drops called Stories, through further pop-up events this year. Among the house’s other plans is a collaboration with the Paris Opera on its 350th anniversary gala on May 8.