New York Fashion Week got its mojo back, the media impact of the recent September edition vaulting 145 percent, according to tabulations by Launchmetrics.
All four main fashion weeks garnered more media impact value for the spring 2023 season than the fall 2022 shows six months ago thanks to theatrical runway spectacles, savvy use of celebrities and influencers, and large audiences from the Asia Pacific region.
Releasing its spring 2023 insights on Wednesday, Launchmetrics said fashion month generated $938.4 million in media impact value or MIV, a scoring system that assigns a monetary value to every post, interaction or article about a brand or event.
It highlighted an “emerging trend” of runway moments boasting surprise celebrity appearances, such as Paris Hilton at Versace, Cher at Balmain, Kim Kardashian at Dolce & Gabbana, Lil Nas X at Coach and Bella Hadid at Coperni, where she walked in a white dress that had been spray-painted on her nearly naked body.
Itinerant shows, such as Fendi in New York and Victoria Beckham in Paris, were also a novelty of the season.
Influencers gained steam, with their share of voice more than doubling since last season and generating $214 million in MIV across the four fashion weeks, Launchmetrics said.
The giant Vogue World show, marking the fashion title’s 130th anniversary, topped the runway ranking in New York, with Fendi coming in second with a show that unfurled collaborations with Marc Jacobs and Tiffany & Co.
Milan Fashion Week grew its media impact by 82 percent, with China jumping to number three in the country rankings, up from 17th place.
South Korea was the biggest audience for the Prada show, boosted by the presence of such celebrities as Jaehyun, Song Kang and Twice. Gucci’s show featured 68 sets of identical twins, yet one woman, Chiara Ferragni, earned the brand almost a million in MIV.
Dior kept its lock on the number-one position during Paris Fashion Week thanks to heavy attendance by celebrities and influencers, earning $34.9 million in MIV. Balenciaga’s “Mud” show came in second, and Valentino jumped into third place from seventh the previous season.
Overall, the French fashion capital saw its media impact leap 48 percent to $384.2 million.
Significant interest in London Fashion Week from China, India and Indonesia underscored its MIV, which inched up 3 percent $41.8 million. A group show for emerging designers called On-Off topped the runway rankings, with 98 percent of its media impact credited to mentions by traditional media titles. Richard Quinn came in second and Nensi Dojaka third.
Off-schedule shows yielded a range of media impact, with Alexander McQueen’s showing during the Frieze art fair garnering $1.6 million in MIV; Ralph Lauren’s Los Angeles, California, event generating $9 million, and Burberry’s postponed London, England, runway generating $17.8 million, boosted by the attendance of Thai actor Vachirawit Chivaaree, better known as Bright.