MILAN — Elected a new guest member to the couture calendar in Paris, Francesco Scognamiglio is gearing up to make its debut in the Ville Lumière with a runway show on Sunday.
The event marks the official launch of the brand’s couture line, which is somewhat of a return to his roots for the Neapolitan designer, who in 2000 made his runway debut at Alta Roma during couture week in the Italian capital.
“I was born a couturier, not a ready-to-wear designer,” Scognamiglio said. “Couture is my bread and butter, I cannot design a regular cotton shirt.”
Scognamiglio, who has always developed custom-made creations for private clients, said his official venture in the couture business happens at a critical time for the fashion industry. “The world of ready-to-wear is very confusing now, everything is superfast and there is a certain lack of content,” said the designer. “I think it’s great to have the opportunity to focus on something, like couture creations, which require so much work and such a creative effort.”
Scognamiglio, who last year sold 30 percent of his company to Y Capital Management, also thinks that the launch of a couture collection in Paris will have a positive impact on the brand’s overall business. The company is expected to introduce accessories, fragrances and potentially men’s wear within the next few seasons.
In Paris, the designer will show a lineup celebrating an imaginative journey from Naples to Paris. “This process of evolution will be highlighted by the soundtrack, which I personally created,” he said. “To get an idea of the mood, imagine an alien angel wearing clothes with incredible constructions,” he revealed, adding that the casting will feature some of the models who became his friends over the years. These will include Karmen Pedaru, Magdalena Frackowiak and Constance Jablonski.
Scognamiglio used a range of fabrics, from superlight materials to others with a plasticlike effect. “The collection includes different forces — a kind of exaggerated romanticism evolves into a strong eroticism.” Some details will also be concealed for an unexpected surprise. “Many dresses are lined with lightweight tulle and chiffon fully embroidered with crystals,” he said.
Scognamiglio added that the collection, which includes an elaborate skirt selling for 20,000 euros, or $22,147 at current exchange rate, targets “those hyper rich international women who want to look unique and special.” According to the designer, this audience is no longer attracted to the fast approach of mass luxury but is looking for exclusivity. “Extremely wealthy people ask for extraordinary, unique things and they are happy to wait the time necessary to make them,” he said.