Designer: Ryuhei Oomaru
Backstory: Oomaru is coy when asked to name the high-end clients he services at Oomaru Seisakusho 2 Inc., his 10-year-old pattern-making and sample creation studio on Canal Street in New York, saying only that they are among the best-known names in the industry. What the former head tailor for Donna Karan isn’t reluctant to talk about, however, is his personal side project, Overcoat, a brand he created three seasons ago to offer a distinct structural take on apparel that is based on his skills in creating patterns, expertise he undoubtedly honed during his time working for Comme des Garçons. The unisex collection, which has been expanded to include suits, shirts and trousers, is inspired by the storefront awnings he saw in his adopted home of New York. The collection was shown for the first time during New York Fashion Week: Men earlier this month.
Key styles: Outerwear is still a key part of the line and features several capelike models that have been created from canvas and vinyl fabrics like those used in awnings. A “cape shoulder” is a silhouette for fall and is created from one continuous rectangular piece that creates a capelike drape when wrapped around the shoulder. Overcoat offers two models for the season that can be snapped in such a way as to create a jumpsuit. But the more-commercial jackets, shirts and trousers are where Oomaru’s unique eye for details shines. For example, he has updated suit jackets with dolman or raglan sleeves that expand and contract based on the shoulder width and slope of the wearer. In the trousers, the designer played with the seams, creating a high-waisted wide-leg trouser with no side seams, only an inseam, while the seams on the straight-leg trousers are on the front and back. The pieces are made from Japanese wools traditionally used for school uniforms or tightly woven melton wool used in military uniforms.
Prices: Coats retail for $1,500 to $2,000; jackets around $1,000, trousers for $675 and shirts for $500. The collection is sold at United Arrows, Barneys Japan and Isetan in Japan and was picked up by Le Bon Marché in Paris for fall.