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Even before the lights fully went on, there was no missing the color pop of Ivan Mandzukic’s electro-classic men’s wear fall lineup. The young Berlin-based designer tapped Goethe’s color theory for a palette that not only rocked the socks off brightly ankled models, but sent a jolt through neatly tailored — and sometimes geometric and full-volumed — silhouettes.

Rustically felted virgin wool teamed up with fine men’s wear suitings, hand knits with a vintage ski-jumper feel, spongey athletic foam, and solid cotton shirtings for offbeat yet straightforward looks. Case in point: a rounded orange foam bomber atop a baby blue athletic mesh vest, mud brown cotton shirt, trim charcoal pants, magenta socks and brown leather oxfords with grape taped heels. The utility tape banding also brightly closed the designer’s signature backless reefer coats and jackets, now starring up front or as a layering surprise.

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