PARIS — Sixteen years after Jean Paul Gaultier launched the blockbuster scent Le Male, the brand is introducing its next major men’s fragrance, Kokorico, starting this week in France.
This story first appeared in the September 2, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“I wanted something that was different from the [fragrances] I did before,” said Gaultier.
“The territory, the story [of Kokorico] is very different from Le Male’s,” continued Eric Henry, chief operating officer of Beauté Prestige International, the Shiseido fragrance division that holds the Gaultier fragrance license and whose executives worked closely with the designer on Kokorico.
“This time I wanted something strong, fresh and masculine,” continued Gaultier. “So I was thinking about something woodier, herbs and plants — that’s why there is fig.”
Other notes alongside fig leaf in Kokorico’s juice, concocted with Firmenich’s Olivier Cresp and Annick Menardo, are patchouli, cedar, cocoa bean and vetiver.
The new fragrance’s black bottle with red writing takes the form of a profile and comes in the signature Gaultier tin can outer packaging.
BPI will back Kokorico in France with the largest advertising and sales promotion budget it has ever put behind a men’s fragrance in one market. Photographed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino and featuring model Jon Kortajarena performing a dance to the beat of Mirwais, the campaign will primarily be centered on the film. Its 30-, 15- and 10-second versions are destined mainly for TV. The print ad is to appear in single and double pages.
Kokorico was introduced Thursday in France’s domestic and travel-retail markets. Then, most of the other European countries are to get the scent in first-quarter 2012 and the rest of the world (save for China and the U.S. that are slated for 2013) will start selling Kokorico during the first half of 2012.
The product lineup has a 100-ml. eau de toilette spray for 75 euros, or $108.35 at current exchange, and a 50-ml. edt spray for 54 euros, or $78. Prices are for France. Ancillaries are to include an aftershave lotion, an after-shave balm, a deodorant stick and a shower gel.
In September, BPI is aiming for Kokorico to rank among the top three men’s fragrances in France. Then, between September and December, the goal is for it to be in the top five countrywide, according to Henry.
Company executives would not divulge sales projections, but industry sources estimate Kokorico in 2012 will generate 60 million euros, or $86.7 million, in retail sales.
Kokorico’s launch comes at a time when Le Male is still selling strong. The scent currently ranks second in a host of European markets. In the U.S., where Le Male places seventh, it continues gaining market share and rank.