MILAN — Art Deco wouldn’t do.
This story first appeared in the March 2, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
For the first Loewe store in North America, which opened in Miami’s Design District over the weekend, creative director Jonathan Anderson opted out of the city’s glitzy architectural tradition in favor of something that related to the house’s Spanish roots: In an example of the mountain coming to Mohammed, Anderson scouted an 18th-century granary building known as an hórreo from Spain, bought it, imported it and had it rebuilt in the store.
“A bit of shipping was involved, a lot of legal,” said Anderson, who wanted a modern interpretation of Spanish history and worked with a company that does installations for the British Museum. The concept is to “borrow” the hórreo for 10 years. Loewe bought the plot of land that it was on and Anderson’s intention is to eventually return it, at which point “Loewe will move the concept forward,” said Anderson of the store’s design.
The 36-foot stone granary is installed in a stark white building accented by furniture inspired by William Morris.
“It has this warmth that I wanted, but it also has this hyper-glossy feel around it,” said Anderson. “It’s a white box with a stone building inside.”
This is the third Loewe store that has opened under Anderson’s direction, but the first to bear a major conceptual direction. He plans to have ongoing artist collaborations on the arclike hórreo.
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which owns Loewe, is working extensively with the Miami Design District. The Miami lease was already set when Anderson joined the company as creative director in 2014.
Now all he has to do is to see the store in person. “I’ve never been to Miami,” he said. “I literally designed everything from video conferences and a thousand renderings.”
Anderson’s attention now turns to Paris, with his sophomore women’s show for fall scheduled for Friday.
As he did during Men’s Fashion Week in January, Anderson is to preview a key look from the runway in an outdoor campaign shot by Steven Meisel and slated to break on kiosks in the French capital today.
The three-pronged campaign includes pack shots of leather goods, and a never-before-seen portrait of the ultra-shy Meisel, seen grinning childlike with four parrots perched on his outstretched arms, and one on his head.
Anderson considers Meisel’s imagery a crucial cultural reference as he overhauls Loewe.