MILAN — Macramé broderie anglaise at Capucci? Mario Dice, the newly appointed creative director of the storied brand, wants to add his own unexpected twist to the label. Providing a glimpse into his first collection for Capucci that will bow for spring 2017 in September in Milan, Dice said “the idea behind the collection is “the lightness of weight,” and to create clothes that seem structured but that are superlight, with origami, intarsia, pleats and very few cuts. He also said he wants to introduce prints in a ready-to-wear collection that is designed to be worn “from day till evening.”
That said, the affable Dice is highly respectful of Roberto Capucci, known in the Sixties and Seventies for his architectural and sculptural approach to design. “We met and, at 86, he has the enthusiasm of a 20-year-old, but he urged me to feel free and to do what I felt like doing,” said Dice. “I loved listening to his story, but the first collection will expressly not be archival, then later I can go back to Capucci’s history but now it’s my own idea.”
At 38, the designer has already racked up an impressive 25-year experience working for Sorelle Fontana, Gattinoni, Calvin Klein and DKNY, Krizia, Trussardi, Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy, Zuhair Murad and David Koma. He also designs his own namesake line. “Capucci is in my chords, I come from the sartorial world,” said Dice.
New majority owner, businesswoman and art patron Paola Santarelli emphasized Dice will “maintain the vision of Capucci but make it more contemporary and wearable.” She said the designs will be made by hand with Italian fabrics. “There will always be that little something more,” she explained, pointing to her own jacket, simple in a cream color except for an intricate design of inlaid silk ribbons in different colors. “We are not looking at maximizing sales, we want to build credibility and a cultural and artistic concept that has value.”
By 2017, Santarelli hopes to open Capucci boutiques in Milan and Rome. The brand is available at around 90 multibrands in Italy and 20 around the world.