The two have joined on an exclusive capsule that will launch on Wednesday and encompasses activewear, upcycled pieces and footwear created in partnership with Jimmy Choo.
The 28-piece collection includes a range of white-and-blue separates created from upcycled bedsheets and deadstock leather, as well as a series of jersey leggings, tops and catsuits in Serre’s signature moon print.
“When we created the capsule, we were thinking about what the need is today. We [included] a lot of activewear because we have spent so much time at home in the last year. Of course, it’s going to influence the creation,” said Serre.
The shoe capsule was also designed to reflect Serre’s flair for regeneration: The vintage Jimmy Choo ‘Faro’ pump was given a modern-day, sporty twist by melding leather and printed rubber panels or adding splashes of bold red hues. Sporty lace-up flat boots and sneakers are also included in the range, to match the activewear on offer.
“Marine Serre’s innovation and experimentation grabbed my attention: She has her own ethos and way of thinking about the future. It was refreshing to see her perspective on our DNA, our archive and how she would remix Jimmy Choo. I’m always intrigued by the mindset of the future, there is still so much to exchange,” said Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo
Prices range from 120 euros to 1,545 euros.
Mytheresa has always made exclusive capsule collections from its brand partners a priority.
“Point of difference is always important and that is what our clients are looking for: Something new and exclusive,” said Tiffany Hsu, the company’s fashion buying director.
So far, the retailer has been known for securing exclusives from major brand names such as Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Balmain and Prada.
“Also supporting the ‘new blood’ of our fashion industry as an exclusive partner is a value close to our heart,” said Hsu, adding that Serre appeals to the same luxury clients who buy into the bigger-name brands. “Her designs are highly perceived and most pieces are immediately sold out after launching on the site.”
It’s Serre’s futuristic aesthetic that has been attracting Mytheresa’s clientele, but her commitment to sustainability and working with deadstock fabrics has been another point of strength.
Hsu said that buying upcycled items can be especially difficult for a retailer if each piece is a one-off and features a different print or color variation. But it can still be possible to incorporate upcycled pieces into a buy when working collaboratively.
“It depends on how the upcycling is done, but we do buy into it, where possible, as many brands have already incorporated it into their DNA. In the end, the product itself has to be right and attractive, which is still key,” she added.
Established and emerging designers are increasingly turning to upcycling as a way of reducing waste, contributing to the circular economy and saving money. Stella McCartney makes new pieces from recycled polyester derived from plastic bottles and waste, but she’s also happy to tear apart samples or fitting garments and use those materials in another collection.
Another British designer, Christopher Raeburn, has turned upcycling into his specialty, spinning military surplus blankets, but also inflatable life rafts or other excess stock, into his clothing collections. For spring 2021, he turned excess stock from the studio, in this case original U.S. military wet-weather poncho liners, into outerwear and accessories.
By definition, there is a limit to the number of pieces that a designer can make with upcycled materials. When they’re gone, they’re gone, which means the designer has to work in tandem with the retailer to ensure they can fulfill their orders.