New York Fashion Week: Men’s will be cozying up to its women’s counterpart in February.
For the event’s sixth edition, its organizer, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, has shifted the dates slightly to Feb. 5 through 7. NYFW: Women’s will directly follow, running from Feb. 8 through 14.
“It’s going to be one 10-day fashion week,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the CFDA. “We will have one schedule, not two and the shows will be marked men’s, women’s or coed.”
He said the preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days but revealed that Raf Simons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on Feb. 7.
He hinted that another “big-name” designer is about to finalize his plans to participate during the men’s shows in February.
Abboud, whose last show was the winter of 2016 when he held an event in a former Gothic church to celebrate his 30th anniversary, said his show will be held on the evening of Feb. 6 “in a very interesting venue.”
“I believe you only do shows when you have something to say,” he said, “not as an obligation to fill space. It’s not mandatory to do one every season and fall shows are much richer and fuller.”
The date shift actually works better for him since it will give him a few extra days to complete work on his collection, Abboud said. And being closer to the women’s shows is also a positive, he believes. “The problem has been getting editors to travel in for the men’s shows, so having them closer to women’s is a benefit.”
Although Skylight Clarkson Sq, the former home of the shows, will not be the central location this time, Beckham said Cadillac House on Hudson Street in TriBeCa along with Pier 59 and Skylight Modern in Chelsea will be the primary venues — particularly for smaller brands.
As reported, CFDA said in July that it would “decentralize” the New York Fashion Week shows and use the “City of New York as a backdrop,” Beckham reiterated. He said the larger brands such as Simons, Abboud and Perry Ellis would choose their own venues, but CFDA would help produce the shows that will be staged at Skylight Modern and Cadillac House. Pier 59, which has historically hosted women’s shows, agreed to set up two of its venues early to add men’s shows, he said. Many emerging designers will show at Pier 59, Beckham said, but more established brands such as Todd Snyder will use that space as well.
New York Men’s Day, a grouping of emerging designer presentations from Agentry PR, will open the men’s part of the week, showing 12 designers in two separate time slots at Dune Studios at 55 Water Street on Feb. 5.
This is New York Men’s Day’s ninth season and its roster in February will include returning designers David Hart, Private Policy, Krammer & Stoudt, Descendant of Thieves, Maiden Noir, Wood House, Head of State, Life in Perfect Disorder and Bristol. Newcomers will include Diplomacy, PLC and Herman by Raif Adelberg.
According to Erin Hawker, owner of Agentry, the presenting sponsor this year will be Creative Drive. Other sponsors will include Project, Lab Series Skincare of Men, Albini, Oribe and Augment + Makeup Pro.
Beckham said CFDA is finalizing its sponsors, and Cadillac, Nordstrom and the Four Seasons are returning.
Beckham believes that shifting the men’s dates slightly to abut women’s will give a boost to the men’s designers — and to the entire calendar. “We keep finding ways to help designers find new outlets to show their collections,” he said, “whether that’s showing men’s and women’s together, showing off-schedule or even overseas — we’re here to help them all navigate. By having the men’s shows adjacent to women’s, we hope we will have strong showing for NYFW” in February.
Beckham said there are no plans, however, to shift the dates for NYFW: Men’s in July.
“We wouldn’t move men’s to September [to coincide with the women’s calendar]. That wouldn’t make sense,” he said. And in fact, the July dates are already set: July 9 to 12, he said.