Lee Lapthorne, the creative director of On|Off, has brought the emerging talent showcase back to London. Here Lapthorne, a London-based academic and creative who stages events for fashion brands at Premier agency, talks to WWD about the upcoming showcase and the advice he regularly dispenses to emerging talent.
WWD: How did you choose this year’s crop of On|Off designers?
Lee Lapthorne: It’s really about the offering. Is this product of interest? Is it “now”? Is it offering something new and exciting to an already oversaturated market? We think we’ve had a really good eye for spotting talent, but really the make-or-break for emerging designers isn’t necessarily whether they’re talented or not, but rather do they have a business infrastructure? Do they have the support? Do they conduct themselves in a professional manner?
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WWD: Where is the funding for On|Off coming from this season?
LL: L’Oreal International are giving us financial help and also sending their teams in. They’ve supported us from the outset, and it’s a great fit because it enables their young salon hairdressing teams to get involved with our new talent. London School of Make Up who has provided support finically and amazing make-up teams for the whole event.
WWD: What sort of advice do you give young designers today?
LL: Don’t try and emulate a Gucci, a Prada, a McQueen. Don’t forget that they all started somewhere, and were really known for something and specialized in something. I cite people like Christopher Raeburn, who was an On|Off designer in Paris. He has built his whole company around the parka jacket. That parka jacket comes every season, but it’s developed and moved forward. And then he started to add other elements to the collection. And that, I think, is typical of a successful designer these days.
WWD: What else do you tell them?
LL: Don’t try and build a whole wardrobe for your clients, your customer, or your muse. Some of these designers are building collections of 30 outfits, and 1.) You’re going to go bankrupt, 2.) instead of doing 30 outfits, why don’t you do 15 that are so exquisite and so beautiful — and have a stronger offering? I think buyers are more interested in that. I’ve also watched designers grow, and made sure that they are consistent and professional. It’s about strategy as well, not just going into something blind, but really doing their research and thinking strategically.
WWD: What does the future hold?
LL: We hope to continue. I see that there’s talent out there, but I also feel that it’s multifaceted; I see a lot of fashion artwork, fashion photography, textile and furniture designers. I’m seeing people cross-pollinating. And that really excites me. It’s about how we can capture that, and how On|Off can look at lifestyle in the future.