“It was very physical: I was fighting with the mannequin, massaging the fabric, talking with the fabric to see which way it could work best….That’s how I arrived at these avant-garde silhouettes,” said Paris newcomer Karim Adduchi, whose first collection, for his graduation show for Amsterdam’s Gerrit Rietveld Academie in 2015, was based on experimenting with traditional berbère carpets and Moroccan textiles to take them somewhere new.
The Amsterdam-based designer, whose parents are tailors, “grew up with fabrics, scissors and the sound of the sewing machine,” living between Spain and Morocco.
For his fall 2019 collection, to be presented on March 4 at the Saint James Albany hotel as part of the official Paris calendar, the aim is to make sure the audience knows what he stands for: “quality and craftsmanship, transparency, and also comfort,” bringing “the Moroccan aesthetic into the modern era.”
The new line will feature sculptural silhouettes in breathable fabrics like Pyratex, a form-fitting knit made from vegetal fibers that is said to stimulate blood circulation and skin cell regeneration. Across around 40 looks, the designer wanted to cater to the different moments in a woman’s life, moving between eveningwear, practical elements for daily wear and more avant-garde pieces, the whole perfumed with his childhood memories, mixing “modernity and orientalism.”
Items include a modern blazer with Moroccan finishing, draped skirts, dresses full of colorful fringes and a minidress made entirely from a Moroccan embroidery transformed into a fabric. With a palette anchored in white, reds and earthy browns, the line’s striped fabrics nod to the artisanal weaves of his homeland. Adduchi also uses waste leather recuperated from brands and recycled paper for his packaging.
The designer, who has an artist background and until now has focused on bespoke pieces, is happiest when working with his hands, “molding materials by hand and folding them, and creating different strengths in the same fabric.”