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KOSTAS MURKUDIS

Kostas Murkudis — well-known to the fashion crowd during the late Nineties when he presented some of the most lauded women’s collections in Paris — is relaunching his commercial line this season.  

The “inter gender” collection, as the German-born designer with Greek origins calls it, is worked around the concept of a unisex wardrobe based on men’s iconic garments. It aims to offer the same ideas for both sexes with only slight modifications in proportion, fabric and fit.

Taking inspiration from New York’s underground of the late Seventies and early Eighties with the iconic couple Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe specifically in mind, the collection of about 15 to 19 looks for each gender proposes a silhouette fitted to the body, mostly with high-waisted pants, some in black or beige denim with a leather insert. Tops have narrow sleeves and small shoulders. Knit sweaters match the lengths of the blousons, denim jackets and coats layered over them. Graphic accents abound thanks to Murkudis’s knack for fabric experimentation including laser-cut light cotton jersey designed for underpinning, or leather and latex bonded to wool giving a nod to the “fetish” side of the Smith-Mapplethorpe duo.

This marks a new start for Murkudis, who until now was producing his experimental women’s wear creations in-house in small batches sold exclusively at a few trendy stores worldwide. His new collection was produced with licensee GFM Industria SpA of Italy, owner of brands Ter et Bantine and Hache, where Murkudis has served as creative director since last fall.

The Kostas Murkudis presentation will be held on Sunday from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. at Showroom GFM, 27 Rue d’Argenteuil, 75001 Paris.

NEXT: White Mountaineering >>

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

As the brand name suggests, White Mountaineering, founded by designer Yosuke Aizawa in 2006,  is a label with technical outerwear at its creative core. The Japanese designer, who formerly worked for Comme des Garçons, aims to blend design utility and technology in his collections.

With two flagships in Japan and numerous high-profile collaborations including Moncler, Barbour and the snowboarding brand Burton, White Mountaineering has gained a serious reputation in trendy streetwear circles.

Since being invited by Pitti Uomo to show in Florence in 2013, the designer has had in mind the idea of a proper event in the French capital. “While thinking about our brand situation and position, I decided it was time for us to do a presentation in Paris,” Aizawa said, although he expressed concern about the best way to show how functional and well-made his clothes are.

He summed up his style as a fusion of function and fashion, and this fall-winter season will be no exception. Titled “SPEC,” the 25 to 30 looks in the collection take inspiration from military camps and use technical fabrics such as Gore-Tex. The style is sourced from army camouflage — with some elaborate prints made of repeated owl or flower motifs — and outdoor gear.

The White Mountaineering presentation will take place today at Galerie Joseph, 116 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris.

NEXT: OAMC >>

OAMC

A new brand founded by ex-Supreme designer Luke Meier and streetwear designer Arnaud Faeh, OAMC embraces the idea of fusing function with luxury, quality apparel. Taking a cue from the pragmatism of last century’s workwear, OAMC focuses on innovative and technological construction.

“The idea is to propose a very modern product with a strong aesthetic,” offering a complete wardrobe of coats, down jackets, shirts, knits, pants, accessories and shoes, said the designers. This first collection, designed in Paris and created in OAMC’s Milan-based development-and-production headquarters, takes inspiration from the mountains and their spiritual aspects, such as the crosses topping the summits of the high Alps. The faded spots on snow leopards found in the Himalayas served as a motif for a jacquard fabric used in the collection.

Reluctant to reveal too many details about the line, Meier and Faeh noted that quality fabrics — such as bonded Italian jacquard wool, superlight Japanese technical double-face material, compact outerwear jersey, Italian waterproof leather and technical knitwear made of reflective yarn blended with cashmere — are a cornerstone of their offering.

Production for OAMC apparel and accessories is in Italy and Portugal, while footwear is made in France and Italy, and eyewear in Japan.

OAMC will be presented Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. at Tomorrow Showroom, 28 Rue de Lappe, 75011 Paris.

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