This story first appeared in the September 23, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“It was an interesting fusion of couture details and fun and the great American classic, combined with whimsy.” Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and fashion director, Macy’s Inc
“Their take on Victorian ruffled necklines, romantic florals and mini tulip skirts was the perfect balance of classic and sexy.” Gia Ghezzi, fashion director, Intermix
“It had an innovative and sophisticated take on femininity, with new sculpted volumes. I find this new softness very contemporary.” Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente
“They just killed it with the strongest collection of the week, the most intense and original craft and construction so supremely confident that even a gown made from a grid of feathers delighted us.” Scott Tepper, buying director for fashion, Liberty of London
“It felt very right and of the moment.” Roopal Patel, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue
“The designers pulled out one of their best collections ever.” Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
“They really hit it out of the ballpark. It was very wearable, beautifully constructed, and it still had that edge.” Suzanne Timmons, senior vice president and fashion director, Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor
“Overall, just a standout in terms of newness that wasn’t referencing anyone and was just so mesmerizing.” Sarah Rutson, vice president of global buying, Net-a-porter
“It was magical, from the clothes to the venue.” Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer merchandising, Nordstrom
“I’m French. It was extraordinary.” Marie De Reynies, divisional merchandise manager for women’s wear, Printemps
“It captured the idea of feminine architecture and the contrast between things that are fluid and rigid.” Leila Yavari, fashion director, Stylebop
“It was 200 models and incredible looks. It’s an incredible business for us.” Steven Cook, senior vice president of buying and merchandising, Holt Renfrew
“However beautiful and incredible the setting was, if you stripped it down to the clothes, they looked great, too. That was truly a moment that will be difficult to duplicate.” Beth Buccini, cofounder, Kirna Zabête
“I loved the boudoir spirit, the turn-of-the-century nightgown and camisole…the clothes were spectacular.” Ken Downing, senior vice president and creative director, Neiman Marcus
“It had such amazing craftsmanship.” Jennifer Cuvillier, style director, Le Bon Marché
“Rosie is our New York star. Her clothes are so interesting and different and she has a unique point of view.” Sarah Easley, co-founder, Kirna Zabete
“He stuck to his core aesthetics yet injected a casualness with his toggle closures, tie-dyed fabrics and heeled espadrilles.” Kelly Golden, owner of Neapolitan Collection in Winnetka, Ill.
“It was my favorite collection not only for ready-to-wear, but I believe he created the new, effortless ‘It’ bag.” Sebla Refig Devidas, buying director, ladies merchandise group at Beymen in Turkey
“We were drawn to the elevated sense of ease combined with rich artisanal elements.” Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion director of Barneys New York
“The materials were very natural and I felt that it was on-trend. It had a kind of nomad feeling that is quite new for our market.” Reiko Otomo, fashion coordinator at Matsuya
Buyers were also looking for new perspectives. Here, some of their discoveries.
Gia Ghezzi: Self-Portrait and Carolina Ritz. “Their collections get better and better every season.”
Jeffrey Kalinsky: Brock. “They have a unique point of view and are definitely stars on the rise.”
Kelly Golden: Monse
Ken Downing: Monse and Gypsy Sport. “I loved the youthful exuberance of [Gypsy Sport].”
Leila Yavari: Eckhaus Latta and Sarah’s Bag
Marie De Reynies: Jonathan Simkhai
Nicole Fischelis: Delpozo and Wes Gordon
Roopal Patel: Thaddeus O’Neil, Gabriela Hearst, Rosie Assoulin and Tome.
Scott Tepper: Tomas Maier, Rachel Comey, Jonathan Simkhai and Baja East.
Sebla Refig Devidas: Marissa Webb, Veronica Beard and Tanya Taylor.
Steven Cook: Self-Portrait and Ryan Roche
Tomoko Ogura: Tracy Feith, Brock and Warm. “We love the free-spirited and playful sensibility of Warm.”