MILAN — Rossignol Apparel has tapped Italian designer Andrea Pompilio to design a capsule collection under the Studio line for fall 2018. The collection, comprising 30 styles for men and women, will bow at Pitti Uomo and Milan Men’s Fashion Week in January.
Alessandro Locatelli, chief executive officer of Rossignol Apparel, said Pompilio was selected “for his modern vision of urban style — elegant, refined and functional. Throughout his career Andrea showed great talent and expertise in mastering the combination of style and functionality and we believe his vision embodies the spirit of our urban capsule perfectly.”
Rossignol Apparel is a subsidiary part of the Rossignol Group. The collection was first presented at Milano Moda Uomo in January 2016, combining Rossignol’s sport performance heritage with a sophisticated and yet functional view on urbanwear. Studio flanks the Skiwear performance collection and the Sport Chic resort lifestyle collection.
“I was immediately taken by Rossignol’s project as I’ve always enjoyed working for iconic brands with strong tradition and heritage,” said Pompilio. Founded 110 years ago, Rossignol fits the bill. Pompilio said this was “an exciting challenge. My objective is to project the research, innovation and functionality that are typical of the ski world in a contemporary urbanwear collection.”
The capsule collection will be distributed internationally by Rossignol’s wholesale network of 500 high-end stores; its seven directly operated stores located in France, Switzerland and Italy, and online through Rossignol Group’s e-commerce platform.
Pompilio last year exited Canali, after developing four collections for the men’s tailoring brand as a creative consultant. Pompilio is the owner and creative director of his namesake men’s wear label, which made its official debut at Pitti Uomo in June 2013. That same month, he showed his men’s collection at Giorgio Armani’s theater on Via Bergognone, part of the latter’s efforts to support the city’s young talent. Pompilio was the first designer chosen by Armani.
A finalist in the latest edition of the Who’s on Next talent competition, Pompilio unveiled his first solo effort at men’s trade show Pitti Uomo in June 2011. Before branching out on his own, the Milan-based designer worked for a string of international brands, including Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Prada, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent and Bally. Among Pompilio’s standouts are his bright prints and patterns, often in unconventional color combinations.
Locatelli emphasized the apparel project’s consistency with the brand. The executive expects to reach sales of more than 30 million euros, or $33.8 million at current exchange rate, doubling revenues since the first collection.
Locatelli said that a two-story store will open in Oslo, Norway, in October, defining this a “strategic unit in a great location.” The venue will allow customers to have a Rossignol experience, he said, as one floor will display hard goods such as skis, which will “tell the brand’s story,” and the other apparel. In October, Rossignol will also launch a reboot of its e-commerce site. “We don’t need for our brand to be discovered but to increase access to it,” said Locatelli, who believes the site will also capitalize on the label’s history and the sports champions wearing Rossignol.
Men’s wear accounts for 59 percent of sales, he said. The footwear business has been growing and now represents 10 percent of total revenues. “We have strengthened our urban shoes, but there are also the heritage, more performance shoes and sneakers. The sell-through of sneakers is even better than our apparel,” marveled Locatelli.
France and Italy account for 40 percent of business, followed by the U.S., representing 20 percent. Locatelli said the region will be a big focus going forward and “a growth driver” in the next two years, together with e-commerce. Austria, Switzerland and Germany account for 10 percent of sales, while Eastern Europe brings in 20 percent.
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