LONDON — Now in his fourth season doing women’s wear, Tom Ford said he decided to focus less on dressing individual women, and deliver a firm point of view on “what I love this season.” The 25 looks he paraded in his London showroom on a raft of top girls found the designer back on familiar turf — tough chic — with the luxury meter cranked way up. (As in previous seasons, press was not allowed to photograph the collection.) “Another Russian spy,” Ford deadpanned, as a model entered on pin heels, a crocodile bra peeking out from her slim jersey tube dress. Black leather, glossy satin and crocodile scales painstakingly embroidered on silk jersey heightened the danger-laced, sexy Bond girl mood. Demonstrative gold wrestling belts were a wink back to his Gucci heyday, as were the pencil skirts, the jersey dresses snaked with heavy zippers and statement-making outerwear. Puffer jackets and capes came in glossy beaver fur, hairy alpaca coats in look-at-me shades of tomato red or taxi yellow. Ford said he answered a call from customers to deliver men’s tailoring — he did so with strong Joan Crawford shoulders and substantial padding at the hips.

This story first appeared in the February 21, 2012 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The designer plans to open a women’s boutique in Beijing in the fall, followed by one in Osaka, and an accessories shop in Harrods, and has expanded all product categories accordingly.

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