Appeared In
Special Issue
Men'sWeek issue 01/19/2012

MILAN — “Uman is ready to roll,” declared Umberto Angeloni, founder of the conceptual Milanese tailored clothing label, which on Friday presented what it billed as its first full ready-to-wear collection.

This story first appeared in the January 19, 2012 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The expanded Uman wardrobe, which can be ordered in a range of fabrics, spans jackets, suits, coats, pants, shirts, ties and scarves, with knitwear likely to be added in the coming seasons. Retail prices range from $150 for a tie to around $3,000 for a suit. Since its launch in 2009, Uman has based its seasonal presentations around its suit, in only blue hues, as well as three new editions to its range of so-called “social jackets,” which are inspired by men’s passions, such as sports and travel, with an accompanying book launched each season to accompany the designs.

Celebrating classic elegance, the fall looks were awash with refined sartorial details, from a technically impressive white shirt with no yoke seam at the back to artisanal details on the ties. Suits were made from an array of weighty traditional tailoring fabrics, such as pure Shetland wool, a wool-silk pinstripe and flannels. An impeccably cut wool coat had a removable shaved-mink lining. The house is even broadening its color palette, adding two alternative classic color options: brown and gray.

Angeloni said he recently started to feel the heat from retailers to broaden the Uman offer. “Ultimately, of course, it’s an innovative concept, but it’s also [simply a] suit, it’s an item of consumption, so it should be shown as part of a wardrobe, not just a concept,” conceded the soft-spoken executive.

Angeloni today is also chief executive officer of the Italian high-end men’s wear brand Caruso, which manufactures men’s formalwear for a number of prominent brands. He is also a minority shareholder in Caruso.

Until now, distribution for the Uman label has been limited to six boutiques in five countries, plus one Web-based retailer, Park & Bond. Angeloni said he’s ready to widen distribution in Europe and Asia, though Barneys New York is to continue as the label’s exclusive retailer in the U.S.

The label will also open its first bespoke atelier this spring, based at its concept room on Via Gesù in Milan. A master tailor will be available by appointment. Ready-to-wear blazers, shirts and ties will also be available. The 2,000-square-foot space will house an atelier, a library of men’s wear literature and Angeloni’s whiskey collection.

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