Miuccia Prada is a romantic at heart, and, for cruise, the designer revised feminine elements that have become house staples. Case in point: an ombred debutante lace dress or nylon used for a cocktail skirt and adorned with metal and rhinestones. All along, Prada worked with the lightest of cottons and the wispiest of silks to deliver an array of I-feel-pretty dresses. That same feeling trickled down to Miu Miu, a collection that is based on elegant understatement. Sequins, for example, are matte rather than shiny, and are sprinkled on cotton muslin, a relatively frugal fabric that is printed with faded stencil motifs.
Meanwhile, in Paris, Sonia Rykiel sneaked straight into the captain’s closet for inspiration. “The collection remained very literal this season,” Rykiel says, listing sailors’ uniforms, Fifties’ cruise liners and stripes as the main inspirations behind the season’s look. Colors were marine mainstays, too: red, white and blue. Highlights included Rykiel’s coquettish button-down officer dress, her voluminous, pocketed apron dress in heavy silk taffeta and her signature billowing sailor pants. And, true to Rykiel’s Gallic origins, the beret — topped with a giant wooly pom-pom — was the collection’s leitmotif.