Independent European fragrance makers are increasingly rattling the cage. Here, some of their recent offerings.
Launch date: March
Creator: Stephane Jaulin
Produced by: Appartement 217, of Paris.
Distribution: In Appartement 217 urban organic spa in Paris.
The lineup: One stockkeeping unit.
Claim to fame: When Jaulin opened his seven-room, high-tech organic spa, called L’Appartement 217, located at 217 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, he scented its rooms with a fragrance based on organic essential oils, from plants such as rosemary and bergamot. Jaulin, the former beauty manager of Paris’ trendy Colette boutique — who has also worked with Jean-Paul Guerlain and Kiehl’s — wasn’t planning to commercialize it. But when clients asked about the scent, he decided to make it part of his offer. The organic fragrance, which took eight months to develop, is billed to have therapeutic effects, thanks to sage and orange tree flower accords. Its mint and Moroccan rosemary notes are said to have energizing effects.
Price: 35 euros, or $44 at current exchange rates, for a 100-ml. spray.
CRAZY LIBELLULE & THE POPPIES
Creator: Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud
Produced by: Louise Entreprise, of Paris.
Distribution: 65 doors, in France and the U.K.
The lineup: 42 sku’s.
Claim to fame: The collection of solid fragrances comes in six different series. Each collection of seven products has a quirky theme, such as Les Insouciantes (or Carefree Women, in English), and scents range from pineapple to orchid. This year, the brand launched Les Poules de Luxe (or Ladies of Luxury, in English), a collection based on vanilla; fragrances include vanilla blended with macaroon and with praline notes. Each scent collection comes in multicolored lipstick-size tubes. Prior to creating Crazy Libellule (or Crazy Dragonfly, in English), Masson-Mandonnaud cofounded the Sephora perfumery chain with her husband, Dominique Mandonnaud.
Price: 11.50 euros, or $14.50, per 5-gram scent stick.
Creators: Jeff Lounds and Geza Schoen
Produced by: This Company, of London.
Distribution: About 40 doors, in China, Italy, the U.K., Spain, the U.S. and Germany.
The lineup: Two scents — Escentric 01 and Molecule 01.
Claim to fame: Both juices contain Iso E Super, an aroma chemical said to have pheromone-like effects. Molecule 01 contains just the molecule, while Escentric 01 blends the molecule with accords of pink pepper, lime peel and orris incense. The word “escentric” is spelled in binary code on the product packaging. The brand plans to launch numerous scent duos, with one fragrance containing a single molecule and another with the molecule mixed with other notes. The next iteration, called Escentric 02 and Molecule 02, is slated to hit markets next year.
Price: $130 per 100-ml. eau de toilette spray.
L’ESSENCE DE MASTENBROEK EAU DE POLDER
Creator: Birthe Leemeijer
Produced by: Leemeijer and Dutch authorities.
Distribution: Eight doors in Holland.
The lineup: One sku.
Claim to fame: Dutch artist Leemeijer asked residents of Mastenbroek, a town under pressure from industrial developments, to choose scents meant to evoke the landscape of a polder, or low-lying land common in the Netherlands. The results was L’Essence de Mastenbroek Eau de Polder, a scent that includes notes of grass and hay. There is also an “essence spring,” a 20-liter tank containing the juice for free refills while supplies last.
Price: 45 euros, or $57, for a 40-ml. fragranced oil pour. It’s 35 euros, or $44, at the visitor’s center.
Creator: Jean Clavreuil
Produced by: D’Orsay Paris
Distribution: 15 doors, in the U.S., France and Dubai.
The lineup: One sku.
Claim to fame: The scent was first introduced in France in 1939 before making a trans-Atlantic journey to the U.S. in 1942. It was then relaunched last year with its original bottle design and a juice to resemble its predecessor as closely as possible, according to company executives. Intoxication’s top notes include bergamot, lemon and mandarin; middle notes are jasmine and rose, and at the base are notes of patchouli, vanilla and tonka bean.
Price: 62 euros, or $78, per 50-ml. eau de parfum spray.
PONTE VECCHIO MAN
Creator: Massimo Nobile
Produced by: Nobile 1942, of Genova, Italy.
Distribution: 200 doors, in Italy, Germany, Spain, England and the U.S.
The lineup: Two sku’s.
Claim to fame: The fragrance was inspired by and named after Florence’s most famous bridge, which is lined with jewelry shops selling Italian gold.The scent features notes of jasmine, bergamot, sandalwood and patchouli. Nobile 1942 is a recently formed distribution and production company that began as a family-owned perfumery chain and manufacturer in Naples. Founder Massimo Nobile said his experience working for commercial brands in the traditional perfumery sector helped shape his vision.
Price: 80 euros, or $101, for a 100-ml. eau de toilette spray and 47 euros, or $59, for a 50-ml. eau de toilette spray. An embossed silver 100-ml. spray retails for 150 euros, or $188.
Launch: April 2006
Founders: Ora Ito and Thibaud Perrin
Produced by: Groupe Arthés, of Grasse, France.
Distribution: In Colette, of Paris.
The lineup: Nine sku’s.
Claim to fame: Smiley is billed to be the first fragrance to boost happiness levels. Its formula contains extracts of cacao leaves, which allegedly have antidepressant qualities. Top notes include bergamot and orange, while musk and patchouli notes are at the base. The items in the collection come in pharmaceutical-style packaging with pipette applicators. On the white bottle is the ubiquitous yellow smiley face.
Price: 69 euros, or $87, for a 15-ml. eau de parfum.
Founder: Frederic and Laurence Lipzyc
Parent company: Majina Fragrances, of Paris.
Distribution: 50 doors, in France, Belgium, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Saudi Arabia and the U.S.
The lineup: 19 sku’s.
Claim to fame: Frederic, who directed a transport company, and Laurence, who was a psychotherapist, decided to create the fragrance brand called Zenadora as a combination of the words “Zen” and “adore.” Zenadora’s first offering was a line of scented candles, but the collection now includes six ambient fragrances and four scent concentrates for the home. In May, the brand introduced its first fine fragrance, a woody Oriental, called Zenadora L’Eau de Parfum. Another collection of candles bows in August, and the next scent is due out in May.
Price: 69 euros, or $87, for a 100-ml. eau de parfum spray.