Valextra: The design team catered to a busy customer with the “All in One” travel wallet, which also stores a passport holder and business card holders, as well as other countless core compartments, and the new A4 Portfolio — a zip-around document holder for A4-sized folders that also fits pens, a smartphone or tablet and other multipurpose pockets. These come in classic Valextra calfskin with a leather wristlet and are also available in a new violet hue.
Also functional and softer than Valextra’s staple structured bags, is the new shopper in a supple leather called “butter.”
— LUISA ZARGANI
Giuseppe Zanotti: Giuseppe Zanotti knows his customer will reach out for his jazzed-up loafers with a tartan print paired with a crystal brocade tassel or a sequined pattern of New York’s skyline. The designer updated the classic black suede brogue with silver micro-stud embroidery and designed a hybrid between sneakers and traditional combat boots, the combat sneaker, that fuse supple lambskin, rubber soles, leather coverings and visible seams. Elastics and snaps decorate a bold lambskin sneaker with an Oriental inspiration.
Tod’s: Designer Andrea Incontri blurred the boundaries between formal and informal, revisiting the lace-up with metal edging wrapped like a spur around the heel. The brand’s staple Gommino pebble-soled moccasin was shown with a buckle on the upper. Incontri also presented soft outerwear pieces in leather treated as fabric. To wit, a coat and a jacket that looked like corduroy and tweed designs, respectively.
Santoni: The brand celebrates its 40th anniversary this year and the fall lineup was a tribute to its craftsmanship. Hunting and ankle boots never looked smarter, made with precious exotic skins. Sneakers had the same construction as the formal shoes, with polished effects.
Church’s and Carshoe: In addition to its classic Oxfords, Church’s presented chunky, Teddy Boy models with a Fifties feel. Car Shoe’s hiking boots are fit for city wear with their lightweight soles. Mixed media nylon and suede sneakers had a modern attitude.
Fratelli Rossetti: The brand’s take on classic designs looks back to the Eighties TV series “Dallas.” Asymmetric relief floral patterns are hot printed onto black patent leather and the hand-painted Toledo Bilux shoes where different colors melt into each other underscore the company’s Italian craftsmanship. Pointed toes, cowboy-style boots and buckles telegraph Texas.
Sergio Rossi: Angelo Ruggeri, collection and design director, mixed a cocktail of classic shapes and quirky details for fall. Slip-ons made from brushed leather had twisted, asymmetrical monk straps or magnified tassels, while loafers came with brogueing and chunky soles with treads inspired by galoshes. Chelsea boots were made from a jaunty patchwork of three colors — black, bordeaux and brown.
— SAMANTHA CONTI
Jimmy Choo: Britain’s chilly grouse moors and the gentlemen who unwind by the hearth, whiskey in hand, after a day’s shooting, were the inspiration behind this countryside-meets-city collection from chief creative officer Sandra Choi. Boots, brogues, sneakers and loafers had finishes ranging from traditional tartans and checks to neon orange zipper details, while the treatments even extended to city-friendly backpacks.
Choi’s collection included slouchy and weathered biker boots in shades of Merlot or cognac, and others lined in shearling or with transparent rubber soles meant for hiking. Boxing style boots were done in a green leather Prince of Wales check, while suede desert ones were overlaid with a tartan pattern made from strips of rubber. Even sneakers and high-tops got a dash of Old World sophistication, with patent leather monk straps, houndstooth patterns, or prints made from pixelated oil paintings.