There were nearly 60 shows and presentations packed into the six days of London Fashion Week, and many of them featured appealing looks or ideas. Roland Mouret offered up beautiful black dresses with billowy sleeves and wide-legged cropped pants in wool or silk crepe. Tristan Webber made a radical departure from the figure-hugging leather looks he’s known for with a nautical-inspired collection of long silk evening gowns printed with maps and navigational charts. Eley Kishimoto showed an eclectic group of young looks that included corduroy coats, slouchy trousers with patch pockets and knitted tank tops worn over delicate patterned silk dresses. Meanwhile, at Blaak, Sachido Okada and Aaron Sharif’s theme was tribal grunge, expressed in layered, creased cotton skirts with unfinished hemlines and paper-bag waists and oversized, wrap cashmere cardigans secured with pins. Hamish Morrow, whose show took place in an underground garage, used gray sharkskin fabric for low-waisted pants and rich, oversized Prince of Wales checks for skirts and dresses with ruffle collars or bustles. Brazilian designer Carlos Miele crafted dresses from recycled fabric rosettes and pieced together squares of unfinished denim patchwork to make close-fitting jackets.
Elsewhere, soft looks were the core of Maria Chen’s collection, which featured cropped, corduroy jackets with puffed sleeves, while skirts were short and pleated. At Fashion East, a showcase for young designers, House of Jazz offered red knit caftans with pompons and hooded fur gilets, while Camilla Staerk showed pretty rust and petrol-blue velvet dresses with tulle overlays. Emma Cook’s presentation was heavy on utility wear, like black velvet trousers that had buckles down the side, but she also did more feminine pieces such as a dress with a sweater top and chiffon skirt.