Byline: Julie Naughton

NEW YORK — After 125 years, Geo. F. Trumper is officially opening its business to women.
The London-based perfumer, best known for its range of men’s grooming products, is introducing its first unisex fragrance, called GFT, this month.
According to Barry Wishnow, president of Three Fine Men, Trumper’s North American distributor, Trumper has already garnered a growing female clientele with its shaving and fragrance products. “As we were doing our market research, we discovered that we had already broken into the female market,” he said. “It seemed logical to make our next introduction something intentionally targeted to both genders.”
Wishnow also hopes the “invigorating and sensual undertones” of the fragrance will help draw in a new generation of Trumper customers. “We’re already their father and grandfather’s favorite — now we’d like to build our base among customers in their 20s and 30s,” he said.
GFT features top notes of mandarin, bergamot and lemon. The heart consists of tarragon, lavender and cypress on a musk-like base with notes of cedar and sensual moss. A 1.75-oz. cologne spray retails for $75.
GFT is rolling out now to approximately 200 specialty store doors, including Bergdorf Goodman, Sephora, Barneys New York and C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries. No national advertising is planned, said Wishnow; instead, the company will begin promoting the fragrance by sponsoring in-store events, said Wishnow.
Three Fine Men — founded last January by Wishnow, the former chief executive officer of Hugo Boss — took over Geo. F. Trumper’s North American distribution in May. Projected first-year North American sales for Trumper under Three Fine Men’s management are $1 million wholesale, with about 25 percent of that figure expected to come from fragrance. The Trumper range includes 40 stockkeeping units: 17 fragrances, seven hand soaps, seven herbal shampoos, six special formula shampoos and creams, and three skin care and shaving sku’s.
Wishnow said he hopes to double the brand’s sales by this time next year. That’s not to say, however, that product distribution will become less selective, he said. “We’re not a main-floor fragrance,” Wishnow said. “Our products are best sold as a system, and we like to have a lot of one-on-one time with our customers. That isn’t possible in every store, so we want to stay very selective.”
One way Wishnow hopes to promote the brand is with a barber shop here
Modeled after two such Trumper facilities in London, the shop is expected to open by spring 2000.