Byline: Katherine Wesiman

PARIS — John Galliano is headed for round two in the fur market.
A month after launching his first signature license in New York with Stallion Furs, Galliano is taking Christian Dior back into the fur business here with a collection of 35 coats in chinchilla, sable and mink.
The collection will be sold exclusively in Dior stores, at least for this year.
The house, which calls the line a “boutique” collection, considers it a relaunch. Dior closed a previous ready-to-wear fur division in 1988.
“Dior has a tradition of furs, and it was always a strong business. But the collection had lost its creative side,” said Sidney Toledano, president. “Now we have a real fashion line reflecting Dior style.”
The line includes a tailored black broadtail suit with a basque jacket, a dark brown sable robe, fur-trimmed cashmere coats and jackets with removable squirrel linings.
Dior first opened an rtw fur division in 1973 with designer Frederic Castet at the helm. When he left Dior in 1988, the division closed, coincidental to the general downturn for fur.
Unlike Galliano’s signature fur line, the Dior collection is not licensed to a manufacturer but subcontracted to various furriers in North America and Europe, according to Catherine Riviere, fashion department director. For the first season, the furs will be sold in Dior-owned stores in Paris, Cannes, Monte Carlo, Geneva, London, Munich, Moscow, New York and Aspen.
The first Dior rtw fur merchandise arrived at the company flagship on Avenue Montaigne last Saturday, including six tweed kimono coats trimmed in silver fox that retail around $3,600, based on current exchange rates.
According to Toledano, the store had sold four of them by Wednesday.

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