NEW YORK — In a season of gender play, men’s wear basics are taking on all sorts of new guises. Calvin Klein loves the look of gray flannel — shown not as a suit, but in newly feminine proportions. “I’ve always been a big believer in knits instead of blouses,” he says. “Now fabrics are so advanced, there are new alternatives to knits. I love creating structure by folding and draping.” Here, from the collection Klein will show on Friday, the wool and Lycra spandex shell and pants. For more on the New York collections, see pages 4 to 7.