MODERATE: A BIT OF FLOURISH

Byline: Holly Haber

DALLAS — Moderate sportswear makers might not agree on what season to show at WWDMagic, but many concur on one trend: embroidery.
The stitchwork will pop up on T-shirts, long-sleeved polos and pants for summer and early fall, forming flowers, logos, cartoon icons and leaves.
Color also will play a big role for both seasons, from pastels and sherbets for summer to brights and classic hues for fall.
Bugle Boy for Her, a division of Bugle Boy Industries in New York, will stitch crested logos that are smaller than one square inch onto a variety of shirtings.
“We really think the logo business is strong,” said Carla Christoff, misses’ merchandise manager. “Logos are dying with the very upper end, but as far as our market is concerned, I think it is just taking off.”
Bugle Boy for Her will show cardigan-style polo shirts with buttons running all the way down in a broad palette. Other items include big zip-down plaid flannel shirts in chocolates and ivories, Black Watch knit jacquard and Polar Fleece tops.
They are mixed with twill bottoms — a foundation of the collection — as well as denim and corduroy pants.
The line has been resized to accommodate a fuller misses’ fit and restyled for an updated traditional look, Christoff pointed out.
Bugle Boy also will show the Gold Crest collection, which targets a younger customer, with carpenter pants and shirts, pinwale shirtings with chambray trim, stretch denim T-shirts and pinwale corduroy five-pocket pants.
Gold Crest’s fall palette is bright: lime, yellow, red and turquoise.
Toni Spencer, director of merchandising at Jerry Leigh Entertainment in Los Angeles, describes her company’s big fall trend as “denim-based geek- love-nerdy-preppie with a twist.”
That translates to striped, thermal, stretch, Henley and plaid tops paired with flat-front khaki pants in traditional colors of oatmeal, navy, military red and hunter green.
Jerry Leigh also will show polo tops, wide-leg jeans and lots of sweaters, from baby T-shirts and cardigans to hockey shirts.
Jerry Leigh produces several lines with character motifs under license, including Winnie the Pooh, Barbie and San Reo, among others. The characters are worked onto the clothes through embroidery and screen printing. Sometimes both methods are combined.
Classic Designs, Los Angeles, will be selling a spring-summer collection of Itzuvata, a new line geared toward juniors. It features T-shirts and denim pants embellished with embroidered and printed patches.
“We’re getting out of flowers because they’re not that hot anymore,” said Benjamin Saeedian, owner. “We’re into leaves.”
Gepetto, Hialeah, Fla., also is touting embellishment. It will show embroidered and embossed T-shirts with matching shorts and pants in solids and prints for spring and summer.
Gepetto has several themes splashed across its T-shirts, including motifs of fish, the beach, flowers and leopard and zebra patterns, according to Jacky Feinberg, sales manager of the New York showroom.
Colors include jewel-tone brights, turquoise, fuchsia and lime.
Chuck Goldstein, owner of Confetti in Los Angeles, is sticking with flat-back polyester and cotton rib knit separates in basic pull-on pants, shorts, shirt jackets, T-shirts and a patch-pocket jumper.
“It’s doing phenomenally,” he asserted.
For summer, he’ll add a “squiggly rib” knit and white and blue denim. The warm-weather palette features sage, pink, blue and white. Prints include rose, patchwork and leopard.
Confetti’s early-fall lineup will introduce a light indigo denim group with embroidered tops and coordinated floral printed rib-knit pieces. Goldstein plans to add black denim for later deliveries mixed with gray, burgundy, hunter and charcoal embroidered knit tops.
Venus Love, Denver, will offer feminine, easy pants sets and dresses in florals and block-printed rayon georgette and moss crepes. It will introduce a new print that layers flowers over a tie-dye base.
The line is geared toward misses’ customers with a young attitude.
“We have some young, fun stuff in the line that could be junior,” said Dana Gillette, sales representative. “We did well with a string-strap baby doll. People like something they can throw on and feel flirtatious in and have fun with.”

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