UNDERFASHION CLUB’S SALON SENDS A COLORFUL MESSAGE
Byline: Karyn Monget
NEW YORK — Color — lots of it — was the overriding message as The Underfashion Club presented its trend report last week on the Salon International de la Lingerie.
The four-day trade show, which closed in Paris in late January, typically yields a wealth of ideas for intimate apparel for fall-winter 1997/1998. This year’s fair was no exception, said Iris LeBron, DuPont’s fashion director of intimate apparel, addressing the club.
LeBron and Robyn Beebe, intimate apparel account manager at Lida Fabrics, were the speakers at the seminar held at the New York Helmsley Hotel, which pulled in 170 industry executives. Key ideas were presented with slides of intimate apparel photographed at runway shows and exhibitors’ booths during the salon.
LeBron opened her presentation with slides of corsets in solid gold, pink or taupe, which were worn by trade show hostesses over black sweater dresses. She described the combination as “soft and pretty.”
Other key colors for a variety of corsets and bustiers that looked “fresh and new” were sherbet shades of green, mauve and blue, LeBron said.
“Overall, there were two major stories going on here — basic and modern looks, and elaborate laces,” LeBron noted. “The modern looks really focused on a fabric message such as Tactel and Lycra in iridescent, bronze-tone bras and panties and Lycra Soft shapers.
“There also was a very strong statement in black and white active-looking bras and coordinating briefs and leggings for the junior market,” she continued. “The French and Italians continue to do beautiful laces. There were a lot of leaf-pattern laces, rickrack edges on laces and lots of opulent embroideries.”
Key colors in lace included anything in blue, from pale hues to denim. In satins, indigo was a top idea, she said.
Slips in flocked sheers or transparent looks with seaming were hot ideas in daywear, LeBron said.
LeBron noted that sleepwear showed lots of back treatments, such as sheer mesh backs that gave a slimming silhouette, and Pucci-inspired prints on sheer fabrications. Top ideas in robes and loungewear included luxurious-looking velours with contrasting piping and allover stretch looks in soft laces.
Beebe of Lida noted that the Interfiliere textile segment of the salon show focused on several themes in its “Living Forum” for spring 1998: high-performance and antibacterial fabric blends; textiles that keep the body warm or cool; perfumed textiles, and “fabrics that shape, or softly caress the body.”
The forum was in partnership with several fiber mills, including Bayer and DuPont, she said.
Regarding color, Beebe said pastel “talcum” shades were strong, as well as “deep, summertime browns and spice tones of red and yellow.” Key prints included whimsical vegetable and animal motifs, she said.
“Cross-dyed laces will be more important in laces going forward,” Beebe predicted.