NEW YORK: OVER AND OUT
JACKIE ROGERS: Rogers knows just how to make a woman feel terrific. How else could she feel in one of those sensually-draped charmeuse or bias-cut jersey gowns? Rogers shows her latest jersey dresses in a rich palette of coffee, gunmetal or black. The best: long, wool numbers with leather torsos and sweeping matte versions with suede bodices and boleros. But she also likes a touch of Tough Chic. So giving her gals a shaped, black leather jacket with French cuffs and an asymmetrically wrapped mini was a natural move for fall.
JOAN AND DAVID: Joan Helpern is feeling frisky these days, and that’s reflected in this collection. No, she hasn’t given up her trademark unmatched suits. But Helpern is in sync with the mood of the moment with such looks as an asymmetrical pinstriped men’s wear jacket and cuffed pants or supple belted suede jackets and fitted shirts. The designer also clearly recalls the Seventies, when she lunched in her Diors — and accordingly re-created her then-favorite pieces in the form of sleek camel dresses over pants.
PAMELA DENNIS: Dennis made her name in Hollywood by dressing stars and starlets with picture-perfect bodies. So it isn’t surprising that there was plenty of siren appeal in this collection, which also touched on a number of fall trends. You want fur trim? Try a mink-edged cardigan over a just-below-the-knee-length strapless satin dress. Boy-meets-girl? That’s here, too, with a slinky and skimpy beaded halter top worn with a pinstriped wool mini. The best of the rest: a wonderful little wrap dress in allover beaded mahogany lace, and Dennis’s Oscar contender, a sweeping silk gown with a plunging, feather-trimmed back.
GHOST: You never know what to expect from Ghost. While designer Tanya Sarne is famous for her rayon slipdresses, they’re rarely featured in her shows. But maybe they should be. Instead, Sarne recycled more of last season’s sheer asymmetric dresses, all looking a tad dated, and often derivative, including devore and tree-print dresses which owed an obvious debt to Martine Sitbon. The prancing red deer that appeared on button-front shirts and a side-slit dress was gimmicky, while her fake-fur jackets and capes were more grizzly than great.
PETER COHEN: L.A.-based designer Peter Cohen decided to skip a runway and models for his first show. Instead, he displayed his clothes on 11 mannequins at the Morris Healy Gallery. And it worked. In fact, it was the perfect way to present these well-made, luxurious pieces. Cohen knows just how to make a woman look sophisticated, but comfortable. His take on the bad-girl look, for example, consisted of a boxy jacket, bias-cut tank and slim knee-length skirt, all in leather. Even his men’s wear looks weren’t particularly starched — they featured gray flannel shirtjackets, narrow pants and easy tops.