FROM DIESEL’S SEXY JEANS TO MARK MONTANO’S BUSTLED DRESSES, THERE WAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE IN THE NEW YORK COLLECTIONS.
Diesel has made a mint off its quirky denim line, and is sure to score again for fall with frisky knits, tube tops and sexy denims. 2B sent out its racy activewear under Spiewak’s parkas, peacoats and dance sweaters in a joint show that might as well have been a party. California-based Janet Howard, who has just had a new infusion of cash from her Korean silent partner, turned out some great jersey knits and well-cut pants in her third New York runway show.
Meanwhile, at Matsuda, designer Yukio Kobayashi gave up the gimmicks in favor of thick, mottled wool sweaters; long, floral-patterned knit dresses, and lace coatdresses with chenille flocking. Label designer Laura Whitcomb moved into tricky territory — but at times her inner-clubkid shone through in the clingy knits and long, colorblocked dresses. There were a few pretty pieces at Cesar Galindo _ long, flared halter dresses in satins or iridescent taffetas under blazers and simple little ribbed sheaths. Mark Montano presented stunning bustled shirtdresses that stretched to the floor, topped by corsets in contrasting fabrics.
Elsewhere, British designer Georgina von Etzdorf, known for her luxe silk-screened scarves, debuted her clothing collection of Twenties-style, long, double-layer silk georgette dresses, luxurious velvet boucle blouses and opera coats worn over silk trousers. Marc Bouwer’s show featured such trademark pieces of diva-wear as clinging velvet mermaid or sequined animal-print gowns. Russell Bennett’s best looks were a brown corduroy evening gown and gray handknit tweed coat worn with wool jersey pants. Stretch wool shirtjackets, matte jersey dresses and printed silk charmeuse pajamas were the highlights of Adele Abide’s sportswear collection.
Kyle Kennedy’s otherwise-disjointed collection featured treated leathers and good-looking bleeding plaid pantsuits. Romania’s first lady of fashion, Doina Levintza, showed one-of-a-kind special-occasion dresses that recall Eighties Christian Lacroix. And Marithe and Francois Girbaud brought back their laser-cut looks for yet another round, but the duo also delivered some wearable dark-rinsed denim pieces and camel coats and skirts.