OBITUARIES

Jean Louis
LOS ANGELES — Jean Louis, who designed costumes for many of Hollywood’s glamorous stars as well as clothes for some of the film colony’s most prominent women, died Sunday at his home in Palm Springs, Calif. He was 89.
He dressed such screen icons as Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe, while Nancy Reagan was among his private customers.
The designer was born Jean Louis Berthault in Paris and in the early Thirties came to New York, where his sketches got him a job with Hattie Carnegie.
During his seven years there, he developed his own clients, including Joan Cohn, wife of Harry Cohn, founder and then head of Columbia Pictures.
It was an association that led to an offer to go to Hollywood to design costumes for the studio, where the strapless black satin worn by Hayworth in “Gilda” was one of his most famous creations.
He later worked at Universal Studios, and his work in films earned him 14 Academy Award nominations and one Oscar for “The Solid Gold Cadillac,” which starred Judy Holliday.
In 1961, he began concentrating on his own business, with a salon in Beverly Hills, while continuing to work for the movies on a freelance basis.
He held formal showings at I. Magnin and dressed such clients as Reagan, who continued to wear his clothes while she lived in the White House. He retired from the business in 1988.
Among the survivors is his wife, Loretta Young, the former film star whom he married four years ago. Young, who was one of his private clients, noted in a 1981 interview, “I love his clothes becuase they are understated high fashion and yet seductive at the same time. I give lots of clothes away every year, but I never part with my Jean Louis.”
Also surviving is a brother, Adrian Berthault.
Services will be held today at 5 p.m. at St. Louis Cathedral in Cathedral City, Calif.

Line Vautrin
PARIS — Line Vautrin, a fashion jewelry designer, died here on April 12. She was 83.
The cause of death was a heart attack, according to city records.
Vautrin, who became known for such creations as gilded buttons and necklaces that “told stories,” designed her first collection in 1935, when she was 21, and gained prominence just a few years later.
In 1943, she opened a boutique on Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honore, and a few months later opened a showroom with over 40 employees in the former Hotel Megret de Serilly in the Marais.
Vautrin worked in a wide range of materials, from ceramics to ivory and bronze. Her necklaces had such motifs as Adam and Eve or scenes taken from ballets and operas. In addition to her gilded buttons, she was known for pieces using resin on glass. She also gained a following among interior designers, who picked up her ideas to create such pieces as gilded mirrors.
She retired around 1980. When she decided to sell her own collection of her work at an auction here in 1986, the event drew international crowds. In 1992, a book entitled “Line Vautrin, Bijoux et Objets” by Patrick Mauries, chronicled her career and her designs.
Vautrin is survived by a daughter.

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