Is it really worth it? Installing a second, secret number for reservations at Keith McNally’s Balthazar was only the beginning. Now when you finally secure a table on the private line — forget about the main number, where you’ll be offered tables before 6:00 or after 11:00 p.m. — you get a six-digit confirmation number. Then, on the day of your reservation, you must confirm by calling yet another phone line. Here, a 35-second message instructs you to leave your confirmation number, name, time of reservation, number of guests and a telephone number. Furthermore, the French-accented voice continues, any changes must be made through the main number. Which is always busy. “Thank you for your patience,” the message concludes. If you care that much, you’ll definitely need it.

In other McNally news, Brian McNally was down at the Tides in South Beach, awaiting the Tuesday arrival of Nobu’s chef, Nobu Hatsuhisa. McNally, who parted ways with Ian Schrager and the Delano’s Blue Door restaurant, is reportedly trying to tempt the sushi master to join the restaurant at his SoBe hotel, the Shore Club, still in the early stages of renovation.

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